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Originally Posted by matjay
Will temperature really have that great an effect? And I've heard Talc has moisture retention properties, any truth to this?
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Temperature spec's from the manufacturer should be followed - they vary. There are epoxies that are specially formulated for cold or damp or even underwater applications. They are generally VERY expensive though. I have found you're generally O/K down to about 50 with a fast hardener although it will slow down a bunch.
Talc does have moisture retention properties. This can be a very minor, occasional problem when using polyester body filler and especially with auto body primer over bare metal, if left unpainted - that's where the reputation came from. When mixed with
epoxy I've never heard of it. I was given the process by an old time boatbuilder and boatyard owner - it's always worked superbly for me. Don't forget, worst possible case, even if it acted like a sponge, you'll still have the
epoxy resin coating under it and several coats of barrier coat over it.
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After sandblasting is one priming coat of epoxy sufficient on the keel, and then i can move onto filling?
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Yes, strictly speaking it's not a primer coat, it's a sealer coat - you get it on fast to seal the bright, unoxidized metal from the air to prevent any oxidation which would degrade the bond of the coatings.
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How much dry time is necessary between coats in your experience?
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Until it's hard enough to not gum up sandpaper - varies depending on the catalyst, air temp etc. Sometimes the starting area is cured enough by the time you've finished the end. - It's very easy, you'll see. If you've ever patched or mudded drywall you'll have no problem - very similar process.