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post #4 of Old 03-24-2012
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Re: Easiest way to repaint the deck?

Originally Posted by NewportNewbie View Post
Ok. So I have decided to keep the boat for a few years so I will put some. Only into it. New sails, reprint the deck and some woodwork and trim. Whats the easiest way to paint the deck? It's an off white now and I want to go with a bright white. There are a few cracks in the cockpit that I can fill in but oth than that it's just a paint. Ideas of how much I will cost and can it be done in the water? Or will it have to be pulled?
If you only want to repaint the non-skid panels it can be done in the water. Non-skid can be painted with little or no sanding beforehand - a very thorough and coarse scrubbing is often enough prep. If you want to re-do the whole deck it can't, not in Cali - think about the sanding dust. They'd lock you up for life, after bankrupting you with fines.

Hello has it right - remove the hardware. That will give you a MUCH more professional job as well as the chance to review how well it is mounted - are the holes sealed with epoxy etc.? You can also ensure everything is polished up and resealed properly when it goes back down.

I'd think VERY carefully about using a bright, glossy white on the smooth areas - the glare can be very intense, especially in SoCal. Don't forget that paint is more reflective than gelcoat, especially old, oxidized gelcoat. I'd be inclined to use a slightly grey/white. C&C used it with dark blue and also red hulls and it looked VERY good. For the non skid, with a blue hull I'd advise pale grey for the non-skid. I used Sikkens anti slip deck paint a couple of times and recommend it highly. It goes on thin and won't fill up the non-skid pattern. I used a mix of four parts white to one "battleship" grey - the typical shade of grey in non-skid paints. It came out very well - hardly noticeable as a different shade in the sun but it cut the glare WAY down. Didn't show dirt as much as white either. If you don't like grey, even when very pale, I'd use the same mix with buff. Either one will minimize glare and dazzle compared to white.

Use "Fine Line" tape to outline your masked areas and then mask onto it with blue longlife tape. The "Fine Line" gives you just that - a very sharp tape line with no bleed.

If you are redoing the gloss areas, I'd do the prep and pay a pro to spray the top coat (unless you can use a gun). It makes a big difference over roll & tip and won't cost that much since they are only shooting the paint. Find a car painter who will do it on the side for cash on a weekend.

DIY, using good materials, I'd estimate it will cost in the vicinity of $1K - a pro to shoot the gloss will be extra. You'll need $1 - $200 for non-skid paint, $2 - $300 for the gloss paint, $100 for sandpaper, $100 for masking tape and $1 - $200 for incidentals (masking paper if you are spraying etc.)

Considering where you live, I'd either do it right away or wait until next winter/spring.

First though, pick up a book on the subject - The Hinckley Guide To Yacht Care is the best IMHO, but Casey's is very good as well. The Hinckley book shows you what the best is and how it's achieved. It's worth it just for the pictures of what we mere mortals will never achieve or be able to afford.

Finally, it's a fairly big job but not difficult or requiring special skills (other than spraying). It is also extremely satisfying when done - you can make your boat look a lot better than new if you take your time and are thorough about your prep work.

Good luck and enjoy.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.

Last edited by SloopJonB; 03-24-2012 at 04:02 PM.
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