Yes, you are reading my diagram correctly and thanks for the feedback. I am glad you picked up on that because it was one of the areas I needed some opinion on. I have seen other wiring diagrams that have the charger directly connected to the battery, but I was wondering if it was better and possible to connect it through my disconnect. If I do not wire it through the DC disconnect, the charger will continue to pull from my house bank even when I am away. I assumed that the starting battery would typically be charged after starting the boat while I was out using the boat. I assume this is good to maintain the starting battery, but would it be at the cost of the house bank? Perhaps the draw is so low that it does not have any effect even over several weeks away from the boat. In any case, I would prefer to not have any loads without disconnects accept the safety recommended ones like an automatic bilge pump. Thoughts?
It is better to have the starting battery 100% charged and ready, than it would be to ensure that the house bank is 95% charged, and the house bank dead. The Echo Charger cannot drain the house bank to less than 12.xx (I forget - you can look it up) volts. the drain of the Echo Charge, when everything is topped up is so low as to be negligible.
Similarly, I have the charger/inverter wired to the main DC disconnect. I did not want to have another switch to remember the state of. This way, either the battery banks are connected or not. It does mean, though, that to charge the house bank when connected to shore power I would need to have the DC switch set to on and therefore the echo charger connected as well. Is this an effective way to install and manage an charger/inverter?
I don't have an inverter on my boat, so I am not the expert here. I'll let others with first hand experience chime in.
FWIW - I get on the boat to get away
from stuff that uses AC (TV, Microwave, etc - Yes, I am a barbarian
, or at least my father in law says so
). I do use my laptop, but that runs on DC.