Originally Posted by JUST MESSIN WITH IT
Hey Thanks for the pictures guys, a couple of questions.
Is the 47 inches the finished length or the before repair length.
What would be the finished length
Assuming a circlular section at the top of the keel with circumference of about 15inches with the keel pin in the center is 1 3/4 inches thick, does the keel narrow along its length? Just thinking that top section of the keel must fit pretty snug to reduce the movement during use, but the rest needs to move in and out freeley.
Just how much side to side movement ( wiggle room ) do you have on the keel. To make it snug fit could i cut a thin 15 inch diameter nylon washer.
Thanks for advising guys , you been very helpful
The 47" is before the repair but not much was added to it. You can get the exact length by measuring from the pivot pin hole to the aft of the keel trunk, you want the keel built as long as it can be & still fit inside the trunk.
The keel does narrow along its length, but only on the fore & aft ends after the 15" circumference of the upper keel it narrows to 1" (on the fore & aft ends).
The 15" keel circumference is a very snug fit in the slot, even paint too thick will give you trouble. That being said, it does wiggle a bit, so if the pivot pin hole (bushing) in the keel is too snug fitting it will rip the fiberglass shell around it. Ask me how I know! LOL What I did was I inserted a large bronse bushing through the keel pin hole & epoxied it in well. then I inserted a nylon bushing that was the size of the pin only in the center but tapered out about 1/8" on each end (sort of slightly funnel shaped) this allowed the keel to have it's flexibility, the nylon also allowed smooth swinging. After 2 years of service I took the keel out this weekend & the pivot pin hole in the keel was as structurally sound as when I installed it.