SailNet Community - View Single Post - Hull Composition
View Single Post
post #4 of Old 08-22-2012
Senior Moment Member
SloopJonB's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Vancouver B.C.
Posts: 13,063
Thanks: 90
Thanked 118 Times in 113 Posts
Rep Power: 6
Re: Hull Composition

Originally Posted by TwoD83 View Post
I've been reciting the iron keel on my Cheoy Lee Clipper 42. The old coating mostly fell off on haul out. I've stripped it to bare metal, re-coated with POR-15, and filled and faired with thickened epoxy. I plan to add at least one layer of fiberglass and then more epoxy with barrier coat additive. Am I missing anything? Do I need to add anything else before covering with bottom paint? Any recommendations on applying bottom paint (spray, brush, roll, etc.)?
I posted the following a while back re: coating my iron keel.

Originally Posted by matjay View Post
From the research I've done it seems to me the best approach is to sandblast the keel white, then immediately apply a base layer of epoxy. Any recommendations as to what to use for the base layer? Is something like WEST systems alright, or is a zinc enriched epoxy necessary?

Sandblasting is correct - any grinding method will not clean ALL the pitted areas fully and future failures will start there. Just use regular epoxy resin as a seal coat - nothing fancy, just get it on right after blasting and a solvent wipe. You can't even leave this step overnight. West is only more expensive - 4 times as much as the industrial no-name resin I use. Stone fabricators - counter tops etc. use a lot of epoxy - check around and you'll save $hundreds.

Moving on to a filler, again is WEST ok? and how many coats is recommended?

Again, West only costs more. Get a cement bag of industrial talc for about $20. It makes the most beautifully sanding filler you have ever experienced. Mix it to peanut butter consistency with epoxy and you probably won't even have any pinholes to fill after sanding.

Many people claim to use a notched squeegee or trowel to apply the epoxy, and then fill in between the created lines? is this necessary?

This makes it MUCH easier to get an even coat. Unless you're an experienced plasterer, using a plain trowel will give you a very uneven thickness. You do NOT want to sand through to metal, ever, or you will have to start over there. You want a reasonably thick finished coat - 1/8" min. is my preference - in order to ensure the metal stays buried.

Get an autobody longboard sander - they look kind of like an old smoothing plane, about 18" long and take pre-cut strips of sandpaper. This will help you fair up your keel - mine ended up looking like it had been templated. Also, that keel was so bad it was actually perforated in some of the thin areas along the trailing edge.

I finished mine off with 3 coats of epoxy resin and 3 coats of Interprotect (there was still discussion as to the best sealer at that time). Now I'd just use Interprotect for all coats.
Forget coating it with glass. As Tommays correctly pointed out, it will do nothing but make more work down the road. If you prep & coat it well it will last for many years, barring groundings and so forth. Be aware though, since you didn't sandblast, the life of the new coating will be considerably shorter than if you had.

Spraying bottom paint is not a good idea - it's poison remember. Roll it on lengthwise and if you're fanatical, wet sand it lightly after. I doubt it's worth anything on a heavy full keeled boat. Longboarding it before painting would be more productive I'd think.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 001.jpg (51.5 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 005.jpg (45.9 KB, 6 views)

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
SloopJonB is offline  
Quote Share with Facebook
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome