SailNet Community banner
  • SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Is the C&C 30 MK1 a capible offshore boat?

34K views 51 replies 19 participants last post by  ltgoshen 
#1 ·
:eek:I have been in and around the Port Royal sound with this boat all summer. I have not ventured off shore yet. It takes like 10 to get to the ocean from my home port. To be frank, it’s quite intimidating thinking of going offshore by myself. I will go of shore this month for a day trip. Then, maybe a trip to the next sound south of here for an over-nighters’. I was hoping, I could get some insight if this is capable boat for offshore cruising.
Thanks for your input.:cool:
 
#2 ·
What you're suggesting is more 'coastal harbour hopping' than 'off shore' sailing. Your boat should be fine for that, esp if you're careful about the weather you choose to go out in.

Off shore sailing is generally considered to be crossing oceans or major bodies of water, usually involving several consecutive overnight sails.
 
#3 ·
You are probably fine for what you are wanting to do. C&C's are generally well built, well designed boats capable of pretty much anything you will experience coastally (just don't go out in hurricanes or tropical storms). I go out into the "ocean" with my old hunter 25 regularly, so you should be fine on that boat, again provided you keep an eye on the weather. Just make sure you have at least two reef points on the main, and ideally a %50 jib or some other type of "storm" foresail. If you have no "storm" jib, practice unfurling your genny 25%, and make sure you can make progress upwind with it. Don't rely on the motor for when the wind comes up. Also practice heaving to, and doing sail changes and reefs while actually under sail. (Reef the main by either going upwind and keeping the jib sheet tight while blowing the mainsheet but maintaining your course, or by heaving-to and reefing the main. Change the jib by either "peeling" the new jib onto the second headfoil slot, then tacking and dropping the original jib, or else by running downwind and covering the jib with the main to allow you to get it down onto the deck and put up the new one.)

If you are talking about doing a trip to Bermuda, that's a different story. The boat can probably make it, but will have to be modified to ensure ISAF compliance. You can find the ISAF offshore rules online, they are extremely helpful in identifying the seaworthy and the not so seaworthy features of your boat.

My father has an '82 C&C 32, and it is a very high quality boat with wonderful sailing qualities. The hull thickness is more than adequate, only the lexan ports were original and held on with glue. They were coming off so we re-glued and through-bolted them. The hatches are original and leak when waves wash over the deck, getting the v-birth wet, so will eventually be replaced though it is rare to get water over the deck generally so we are gonna leave them for a few more years.
 
#4 ·
Well my plans would have me doing the 945 nm from The Port Royal Sound in SC to Bermuda in the fall of 2014. After 2 years of practice, I hope I am ready and hope the boat is able. I will use the next 18 months to make some port hopping along Say: Georgetown, Charleston, Hilton Head, Savannah, St Augustine and the like. I want to hug the coast in all conditions to gain experience with sleep deprivation keeping watch, lack of food and general prep. Let me know what you think?
 
#5 · (Edited)
First off, let me say that I have no experience in what I would consider offshore sailing.

That being said, there are much worse choices of a good all around 30 ft boat, but, I'm not really sure what you mean by "offshore".

I'm gonna gamble on a big generalization here; For most people, offshore means going further than, say, 25 miles off the coast for more than 24 hrs with no safe harbors to get into for at least 24 hrs. Farther and longer than that means that you may need more safety gear and more heavy weather experience. You have to face the fact that you could be hours or days from medical attention if injured or sick. Traveling in a boat that averages 5 knots means that you have to be prepared for weather some of us would could not imagine dealing with.

Can the C&C 30 MK I take a beating? Hell yes. More so than many boats.
Can it cross an ocean? Yes.
Is it ideal for crossing the Atlantic? Probably not ideal.

For a short coastal hop, the most important issue after the condition of the vessel is your weather window.

Sailing down the coast for a few hours to the next harbor is not what I would call "offshore" and I think many would agree.

You may find that sailing out on the ocean is kind of boring compared to having rocks, islands, beaches,buoys, currents, and other boats to make things interesting :)

edit: did not see your next post until after I posted this. I think your plan is pretty solid.
 
#10 ·
By the way, I had some great sailing the other weekend and the noticed that the lee standing rigging was limp. I know that it should be lose more so that the windward side but how much? I have a tuning gauge that came with the boat when I boat. I used the gauge and tuned the boat according to the specs. That being said Its probably fine just wanted to ask if this is norma
 
#8 ·
My father has an '82 C&C 32, and it is a very high quality boat with wonderful sailing qualities. The hull thickness is more than adequate, only the lexan ports were original and held on with glue. They were coming off so we re-glued and through-bolted them. The hatches are original and leak when waves wash over the deck, getting the v-birth wet, so will eventually be replaced though it is rare to get water over the deck generally so we are gonna leave them for a few more years.[/QUOTE]

Peter, I've redone the hatches on my C&C. Send me a message and I can fill you in if you are interested.
 
#18 ·
I've redone the hatches on my C&C. Send me a message and I can fill you in if you are interested.
I sail on and maintain an '85 C & C 32. The small hatch over the main cabin has a drip leak coming in under the aft side of the frame. The best I can see is that the Atkins and Hoyle hatches are glued in (the screw holes in the frames only have caulking in them, no screws). Please share you retrofit experience. Thanks -
 
#12 ·
The editors of my favorite sailing magazine "Good Old Boat", Karen Larsen and Jerry Powlas have a C&C 30 (Mystic") based at my home marina which they have cruised "offshore" all over Lake Superior and the North Shore of Lake Huron. Their adventures are referenced often in the magazine and they have experienced all kinds of nasty conditions on the big lake. Check it out. Anybody with a good old boat should be reading "Good Old Boat". Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with the magazine other than a subscription which I will never let lapse.

Mobnets
 
#15 ·
Cncphotoalbum.com has some good stuff on tuning your rig. Even youtube.com has some decent starter video on it.

Specific to your boat, be sure the mast step is in good shape. If it's not, the mast may even sink a bit under heavy loads like beating to windward in heavy air.

If you don't mind spending a little dosh, find a personable rigger who works or maybe crews on a race boat in your marina. He might be willing to give you an hours time when he's already there to help you tune your rig and teach you the basics.
A hundred bucks cash and you pull and replace all the cotter pins :) You might learn alot.
 
#21 ·
After seeing how much the racers tune their rigs before every race I am far less concerned with shroud tightening than I used to be. If the leeward shrouds are just dangling slightly, then I believe that is right for the conditions. If they can flop around, as stated earlier, then that is probably too much. By flop around I mean if they can move in more than an inch diameter circle when the boat is totally loaded up going upwind.

It can get much more scientific than that, but for cruising I keep mine always at the tightest setting since I never really like to change the settings it's just not worth it for daysailing/non-racing.

You have rod rigging right?
 
#22 ·
I assume the offshore voyage article referenced above is the cross-Atlantic trip made in a C&C 30 I. So the boat can take the predictable demands, but IMHO its really not suitable, as most any racer/cruiser of the type is not, lacking the storage needed for such a trip, starting with 25 gallons of water...Can one do it...yes. Is the boat a good choice...no.

As an example of what I mean, you can click around and find the story of the folks who entered a CS 30 in a Bermuda race. Now the CS 30 is a sweet racer/cruiser, comparable strength-wise to a C&C 30, but with more carrying capacity. Anyway the weather turned bad, some lose ends became problems, some problems became very uncomfortable and scary, and the crew called the USCG for rescue, leaving the boat to float off to points unknown. The CS 30 is a very nice boat, but not suitable for offshore use.
 
#23 ·
I assume the offshore voyage article referenced above is the cross-Atlantic trip made in a C&C 30 I. So the boat can take the predictable demands, but IMHO its really not suitable, as most any racer/cruiser of the type is not, lacking the storage needed for such a trip, starting with 25 gallons of water...Can one do it...yes. Is the boat a good choice...no.

As an example of what I mean, you can click around and find the story of the folks who entered a CS 30 in a Bermuda race. Now the CS 30 is a sweet racer/cruiser, comparable strength-wise to a C&C 30, but with more carrying capacity. Anyway the weather turned bad, some lose ends became problems, some problems became very uncomfortable and scary, and the crew called the USCG for rescue, leaving the boat to float off to points unknown. The CS 30 is a very nice boat, but not suitable for offshore use.
I have read many stories about boats going down or sailors needing rescue. Almost always it seems that boat strength wasn't the issue. Usually if the boat had complied with the ISAF cat 1 rules the result would have been different.

Are you suggesting that the laminate schedule and transverse frames on a c&c 30 just aren't strong enough? Or is it a design problem under the waterline? Standard mast too wobbly to survive repeated knockdowns?

Tankage can be a pain, but its possible to bring jugs of water and use sparingly for a week while sailing to Bermuda... design wise I would rather be in a racer cruiser than an old school full keeled boat any day, I don't buy all that crap about fin keelers somehow not being seaworthy, Imho the opposite is true
 
#24 ·
LT,

I have been following your adventure since bringing the old gal back to life. You are certainly ready for your next phase and I commend you for making slow steady progress and gaining experienece instead of going out once in the ocean, taking unecessary weather risks, and claiming you are offshore sailing or been in all conditions. The more time you spend on her the more those statements will have validity.

I suggest you do as planned and start making some coastal hops to other ports watching your weather windows. Navigating inlets, currents, wave actions, ocean shoals is anoither skill which you will need in going to Bermuda. Your boat is certainly strong enough to handle constant ocean inlet hopping. You may wan t to eventually invest in some bladder extensions for your water systems and a chartplotter for redundency of safety.

We have no problem taking our C&C35MKIII ( you boats slightly larger sister) from the Chesapeake up to Massachucettes offshore which has been a 3 day 600 mile trip easily. We still watch our weather window.

I would suggest you take an offshore sailing course ( usually 3 days offshore) to give you some of the other skills as well as learn what you should have and outfit you boat with for the open ocean crossing to Bermuda.

Good luck and way to go for your restoration.

dave
 
  • Like
Reactions: ltgoshen
#26 ·
Thanks for the kind encouragement;chef2sail. I don't want to bite off more than I can chew that's for sure. I have learned a lot this summer. I've only been able to go out 14 times. I have come to realize that the dock is where the danger is. Once I'm out of port and under sail the danger goes way down. I mean the prevailing south wind drives me into my slip. I have to be patience and wait for the slack tide. The dang tide here is like ripping at 3 to 5 knots sometime. A few weeks back, I had someone hit me while I was tied up on the face dock, and did not tell anybody. It messed up the gel-cote on the stern. I patched it. I have a Garmin 215 Black and white Plotter I picked up for $100 bucks. It will take some time to learn all it can do. Someone told me I can mark the dock and it will show me the way back after a day of sailing. That will be great. Its just time, I just need more time. I am shooting for 18 months right now? We'll see. If I'm not ready then I will not go.\
Thanks again for the encouragement chef2sail.
LT,

I have been following your adventure since bringing the old gal back to life. You are certainly ready for your next phase and I commend you for making slow steady progress and gaining experienece instead of going out once in the ocean, taking unecessary weather risks, and claiming you are offshore sailing or been in all conditions. The more time you spend on her the more those statements will have validity.

I suggest you do as planned and start making some coastal hops to other ports watching your weather windows. Navigating inlets, currents, wave actions, ocean shoals is anoither skill which you will need in going to Bermuda. Your boat is certainly strong enough to handle constant ocean inlet hopping. You may wan t to eventually invest in some bladder extensions for your water systems and a chartplotter for redundency of safety.

We have no problem taking our C&C35MKIII ( you boats slightly larger sister) from the Chesapeake up to Massachucettes offshore which has been a 3 day 600 mile trip easily. We still watch our weather window.

I would suggest you take an offshore sailing course ( usually 3 days offshore) to give you some of the other skills as well as learn what you should have and outfit you boat with for the open ocean crossing to Bermuda.

Good luck and way to go for your restoration.

dave
 
#29 ·
Considering there is no shower in a 30MKI, the water tanks are pretty big for a 30 ft boat. I think my '72 held about 70 or 80 gallons of water in three tanks (one small one was about 10 gallons and separate from the rest of the water system just for drinking water.)
 
#31 ·
Water may not be the issue. Fuel definately is, but can be beefed up with jerry cans 20 gallons of fuel is more than 30 hours on my boat at 2700 rpm unless motoring to current or rough seas.

Mosr boats are safer in the water away from the dock. Ocean Boats are safer in deeper water, they get into trouble more in shallow water. ( i.e inlets, passages into islands, docks)

Dave
 
#33 ·
Post a crew ad on sailing anarchy, or start a thread here even. or else just show up at the weekly beer can races and mention to a few strangers that u want to find a ride. Even if a particular boat doesn't need crew that day, my experience is that it is not unusual for sailors to ask aound and find a boat for a complete stranger. Sailors really are the best people. Just don't be shy :)

If ur ever up in the new York area I'll get u on a boat up here just pm me.
 
#34 ·
Let's go back to the standing rigging for a moment.

ltgoshen, I'm not trying to be an alarmist or anything, but there was recently a thread from another C&C 30 here in the Annapolis area who observed that no matter what he did, his leeward rigging was always way too slack.

The problem ended up being that his mast partners were missing, and his compression post was sinking. I think he had rot at the bottom or something. Apparently this problem is somewhat common to these boats, but it is repairable, and not a boat-killer.

I'm not saying that's you're problem, but take some time and ensure that your mast partners are in place, and in good shape and inspect the base of your compression post for rot or "sinking". I encourage you to go to the C&C forum and ask about this so that you know what you're looking for when you inspect these items.
--------------------------

As to the question of whether or not your boat is ok for off-shore use, I've pondered this myself about my own Pearson 30, and this is the answer I came up with:

Our boats are either overbuilt coastal cruisers or underbuilt off-shore boats. :rolleyes: They are very tough, which is why it's so tempting to take them so far, but they do lack some structural components that would enable them to take an off-shore pounding and survive in better condition. It's not just the lack of tankage in my opinion.

I'm not trying to deter you, in fact, I say go for it. Just know the boat's weakpoints and limitations and try to mitigate them as best you can. :)
 
#41 ·
The Older C&C 30's were sitting on wood mine is the newer model made with an aluminum mast steep thru the cabin and mounted otop the keel. It is strong. I have inspected the Standing rigging all looks good. I do have an instrument to tune the rigging and the instructions for doing so. I was just asking how much slack i should expect when under a good blow. By the way I am Planning fy first Port Hop. Looks like the weekend of November 9-11. Weather permitting of course we will shag down to the Georgia coast. Then head back up to hilton head to spend the night at Scull Creek Marina. Then back out side to the bell marker then back to Beaufort. I'm excited.
Thanks fior your help.
 
#35 ·
The question of whether such and such a boat is suitable to go bluewater sailing is best answered by another question: is the sailor ready to go bluewater sailing?

The old saying about the boat being able to take more punishment than her people rings true. If you know your boat and know yourself, you will know if your C&C 30 Mk1 will take you to Bermuda safely. If you are not sure, get all the experience you can, on the water and from forums like this too.

Good luck and see you out there one of these days...:)
 
#43 ·
The question of whether such and such a boat is suitable to go bluewater sailing is best answered by another question: is the sailor ready to go bluewater sailing?

The old saying about the boat being able to take more punishment than her people rings true. If you know your boat and know yourself, you will know if your C&C 30 Mk1 will take you to Bermuda safely. If you are not sure, get all the experience you can, on the water and from forums like this too.

Good luck and see you out there one of these days...:)
Yes Sir, I know I'm not ready as of yet. I am cautious. I WANT TO LIVE... HAHA any wa6y I will go for short day trips offshore for the next 18 months or so before I do a "TRIP" I want to really get to know the boat and its abilities. This takes a commitment to cast off every time I can and challenge the weather a bit. I need to learn to reef in a controlled environment, close to home. Port Royal sound is bought three and a half miles wide and 14 miles long. That may be just the ticket in the learning grounds. I will practice anchoring and standing 3 hour watches. I And you are right a bought this forum, I have met some great people that have done nothing but encourage me but at the same time keeping me safe with warnings and advise. I'm glad I found this site. Thanks again for your help.
 
#36 ·
Hey and there are always a few mods you can do to beef up your boat structurally. Might be a good idea to get this book The Elements of Boat Strength: For Builders,Designers,and Owners: Dave Gerr: 9780070231597: Amazon.com: Books@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61jVMhSiUnL.@@AMEPARAM@@61jVMhSiUnL and see what can be done.

But again, far fewer boats are lost from total structural failures than are lost to things like open companionway hatches in a rollover, inadequate cockpit draining, inadequate storm gear, broken or leaky hatches, man overboards, etc., that the ISAF rules address in detail...
 
#37 ·
.
........But again, far fewer boats are lost from total structural failures than are lost to things like open companionway hatches in a rollover, inadequate cockpit draining, inadequate storm gear, broken or leaky hatches, man overboards, etc., that the ISAF rules address in detail...
and many (maybe more?) voyages go wrong because crew(s) become incapacitated or panicked or otherwise out of their comfort zones...
 
  • Like
Reactions: chef2sail
#38 · (Edited)
Definitely check your mast step, even if your rigging does tune well. This is a common failure on this boat, but not too hard a fix.
My other concern on this boat is the plexiglas portlights-these are too lightweight (1/8") and could be entirely blown in by a broadside from a breaking wave. At the very least I'd want covers I could bolt over them if I knew bad weather was coming.
As for carrying extra fuel, you probably have an Atomic 4, right? I'd rather run low on fuel than carry jerry cans of gasoline, unless you can secure them well and protected.
I'd get to know your boat very well before I'd feel comfortable doing the planned trip. I think the boat is capable if it's in A1 shape, but you want to know where all the weak points are and fix them first.
 
#40 ·
Definitely check your mast step, even if your rigging does tune well. This is a common failure on this boat, but not too hard a fix.
As for carrying extra fuel, you probably have an Atomic 4, right? I'd rather run low on fuel than carry jerry cans of gasoline, unless you can secure them well and protected.
Its a Yanmay 2GM it only sipps fuel as I have tested it. 20 Gal tank will get me to Charleston from Beaufort and half the way back. 172 miles.
 
#39 ·
Yeah the portlights on C&C's were usually glued in. The ones on my father's 1982 C&C were literally coming off, the glue had failed after 30 years of sun and salt water. We replaced them with new acrylic (the older this stuff gets the more brittle it gets) and re-glued, this time through-bolting them in as well. I seriously doubt his portlights are 1/8" thick, as the ones on my father's boat were 3/8 and the boat is only 2 ft longer. Maybe they are 1/4", which I agree you prob want at least 3/8...
 
#42 ·
Another consideration is that many more boats are lost on the shore than in the open ocean. While a coastal sailor may find comfort in being near an inlet you may in fact be much safer with ocean around you rather than rocks.
The physical stress has to be experienced to be believed. On my last trip their was four of us and during a storm we were taking two hour shifts and it is amazing how exhausting it was.

If you are tired, and you will be, the urge to head for the inlet is overwhelming while that may be the worst possible option.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sailordave
#44 · (Edited)
That's good that you've got a diesel.
Get to know your boat. I've owned mine for 10 years, repaired or replaced all or part of every system, so I know what's in good shape and trustworthy and what isn't and will require attention in the future. That gives me an appropriate level of confidence and a strong working knowledge of the boat so in an emergency I know what's wrong and how to get at it and fix it.
 
#47 ·
Just a little back ground on The S/V eastcoastlady . She was on a mooring ball shin deep in rain water. her bimini was blowing in the wind Here is a list of what I have done.
1) pull out the Holli/teak soles replace with fake wood flooring
2) new bilg pump
3) all new halyards
4) All engine filters.
5) drain 17 gals of fuel and replace
6) new Head
7) Pro, cleaned all cusions with new plastic internal covers.
8) rebuild the 3 burner Pressure stove. Works great
9) tune the rigging
10) haul out have cleaned and painted.
11) stuffing box cleaned and repacked
12) New anchor rode and shackles.
13) new Garmin 215 installed.
14 New motor for the pressure water system
15) clean all 4 holding tanks out with bleach and Bacon soda
16) tighten all toe rail bolts to stop the rain water leaks.
__________________________________________________________

Left to do:
1) New Life lines
2) new Autohelm motor if and when I can find one.
3) Speed transducer trouble shoot and repair.
4) Sound proof the Engine locker.
So You are right it helps to get to know your boat for sure.
I got started in December and have spent like 4375 dollars not including the slip fees.
Thanks for the advise Im still learning but having a blast.
have a great week end.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top