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Retrofitting Tiller to Wheel Steering

10K views 37 replies 12 participants last post by  deniseO30 
#1 ·
I found a used wheel pedestal assembly on Craigslist. I had to remove it from an old Islander MKII 30. I plan to install it on my 1967 C&C 31 Corvette. It is not going to be an easy retrofit. My rudder shaft is only 1-3/16" diameter. The donor boat had a 2" rudder shaft. The wheel that was mounted to the donor boat looks to be too large to fit under my cockpit so I think I will have to trim it. It is an Edson pedestal and wheel.

Attached are some pictures of what I'm up against.

Comments? Suggestions?
 

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#2 ·
get a bushing made! The quadrant or wheel that mounts on the R shaft will also be at that same angle so you will need 2 more idlers to change the direction to horizontal.

Or is the rudder from the donor boat available? use that and remake your rudder tubes and make it vertical?

This may work better then the wheel


The wheels come with different offsets too.


But I know cost is most likely a big issue.
 
#3 ·
Don't do it. Don't do it. Don't do it!!!

Boats that size don't need a wheel.

(Someone had to say it)
 
#9 ·
Darn I hate the idea of agreeing with SlowButSteady but in this (rare?) instance, he's/she's absolutely correct. And wheels take up too much room in a cockpit and, its a PITA to fit an autopilot.

FWIW...
 
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#4 ·
Denise:

You are thinking all the right things - thanks. After thinking about it a while my plan is to modify the wheel to work like a quadrant. Yes, I do have the two extra pulleys that I took off the donor boat. A new quadrant runs from $500 to $900. This seems silly since the entire assembly was $100 including the wheel! Yes, the rudder came off the donor boat but it is completely different and I'm going to do this retrofit with my boat in the water so I'll stay with my current rudder and tube. I have a mill and lathe at home in my garage so machining a shim should not be a problem - also cutting down the aluminum wheel should not be a problem. The diagram you posted helps me understand what I need to do. The only trick will be to make a "split" bushing because I can't remove my rudder tube for this project.

I will post pictures as I make progress. Thanks again.
 
#5 ·
I was going to suggest machining the existing 2" bore in the wheel to an SD size taper (2.1875"), IF the hub of the wheel is beefy enough. Then you could pick up an SD bushing with a 1.875" bore to fit your ruddder shaft ($18 from McMaster-Carr, #6086K321.

THEN I saw your last post. No way would I recommend doing that with an AL wheel. Also, I think it's not a wise idea to try to cut that wheel into a quadrant. Not wise as in $@&*ing dangerous! If you MUST do this conversion, why not find a good deal on a bronze or even AL quadrant? Around the country, old sailboats are being scrapped virtually every day. Well worth waiting to get the right part, instead of converting from Tiller Steering to Frankensteering!
 
#6 ·
Given the severe angle of the rudder stock you'll probably have to go to a quadrant style that is swinging aft of the shaft.. fwd will run into the undersole. You will also need a pretty positive 'lock' onto the rudder stock so that it will never slip - usually involves drilling for a pin. That'll be fun under there!!

Can't say I'm terribly enamoured of that project for that boat. I'd be happier with a tiller I think..
 
#7 ·
I agree with SlowButSteady. I have a Tartan 30 that a PO converted. The only advantage of the wheel is that guests think it's easier to manage because "it steers like a car".(Nonsense, of course.) The cockpit is designed for a tiller, the wheel makes moving around awkward and the angled rudderpost and the tight space below the cockpit will make conversion difficult, especially with a unit not designed for the boat.
 
#14 ·
Sorry, didn't see that the wheel was actually split, the condition of it makes it difficult to see that detail. If it will clear, and you have the space to locate the blocks properly (to have the wire rope running to the wheel with no deflection), then it may work out. Going to be a tight squeze! Good luck! :)
 
#18 ·
Looks good! Is there a chance the hose and stuffing box can be moved down a bit? Only problem I foresee is the angle of the cable to idlers and distance to the pedestal
 
#19 ·
Denise you have all the right questions! I considered that and will move everything down if needed. Right now it looks like it will work just fine without hitting the bottom of the cockpit or the big plastic stuffing box top nut. I started work on the shim and so far it looks like it is going to work great.
 
#20 ·
Thanks cook. On my boat the bolt that holds the wheel hub is also the only thing that keeps the rudder shaft from dropping out of the boat!

When you get it all done. you will want to have or make an emergency tiller.
 
#26 ·
Will the wheel you've got clear the lazarette/seat? Or are you going to end up with a tiny wheel?
 
#27 ·
The pedestal and wheel are mounted. I installed some new cable on the chain and now I'm ready to mount the idler pulleys to direct the cable onto the drive wheel.

At this point I am considering removing the lazarette/seat and extending the floor behind the wheel. There is very little storage there anyway because of the way the back of the boat sweeps up and there is good access to that area from the other two seats. A few pics attached of what I have so far...
 

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#28 ·
Seems like your next step is to figure out where to put the throttle/shift levers.. they're not in reach from the wheel in any practical way esp for docking manoeuvers..

If you remove the seat section behind the wheel will you have a level platform to stand on? Standing any length of time at the angle of the counter would be tiresome, I'd think....
 
#29 ·
Seems like your next step is to figure out where to put the throttle/shift levers.. they're not in reach from the wheel in any practical way esp for docking manoeuvers..

If you remove the seat section behind the wheel will you have a level platform to stand on? Standing any length of time at the angle of the counter would be tiresome, I'd think....
Yes it will be completely flat all the way back. I plan to elevate it slightly from the existing floor so I don't have to mess with the Syn-Teak work I have already completed. I agree about the throttle and shift lever - one thing at a time. I am looking at ways to relocate the sheet traveler over the cabin top so I can sit on the poop deck. It's going to be a busy winter....
 
#32 ·
Hey... I feel left out! not been getting updates from the "thread tools" subscription.
Anyways.... Sell the control levers, new they are over $400. then go for controls on the pedestal! I like the "remove the box" make it a platform idea too! (can still make it a hinged lid)
Can the 2nd set of idlers go to back of the rudder? Then you wouldn't be drilling holes in the hull. You would have to crisscross the cable for port turning to port and strbrd to do the same..and if you move the traveler.. you will loose end boom sheeting if you have it?
Looking good! oh! I want to see the whole boat!
 
#35 ·
Heres a pic of a factory Corvette install from 1972, the pedistol is forward of the rudder shaft which makes more room for acess to controls and all the sheets but a pain in the butt for attaching an emergency rudder. Also the cockpit of a corvette is huge and have no problem sailing with 5 others sitting about. Good job have you ever thought of joining the Corvette association, lots of good info there.
 

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