Originally Posted by zz4gta
80' won't go to the top of the mast and back down to the deck. I buy 80' of halyard for my 25 footer.
You'll need 55-60' of amsteel, then just splice an empty cover on the end that's 50' long, overlapping 10'. Splice a shackle on the end, whip it, done.
That being said, what type of sheaves do you have at the mast head? Any chafe points? How important is creep to you? SK75 (type of dyneema) creeps a bit. Requiring you to re-set the halyard. An alberg 35, probably doesn't care much about creep.
Another simple option, just get a blended core like VPC, MLX, or any other option out there. Technora and vectran also make good halyards. Are you using dacron sails? If that's the case then use a blended core halyard, save your money. The sails are going to stretch much more than your halyard.
I'd also spec out a 5/16" halyard for your boat. 1/4" is very small for a 35 footer.
Salsa line - I have it for a traveler line and have seen it used for jib sheets on winches. It does surprisingly well on winches. Only issue is that it might flatten in a cam cleat. I had a problem with Apex doing that on my boat. Salsa will work great on a mainsheet.
Not using the Salsa for a halyard but mainsheet for which it is plenty long. Actually 80' would
be long enough for a halyard..just. 90' is about right. I am going to keep my eye out for 7/16" VPC for a new halyard. I'd use 3/8" Dyneema for a main halyard. Dyneema/Amsteel DOES stretch over time but not under immediate stress to any great extent. The new 90 series has almost no stretch (but is wicked expensive). I'll likely make up a main halyard from 3/8" Dyneema with a partial cover as suggested by Greg. Although the 1/4" has plenty of strength, I'd still go with something bigger. The older boats like mine with large mainsails are VERY sensitive to any loss of halyard tension. That's why I have stuck with the wire halyard thus far. I'll be keeping the wire halyard ready to go back on:-) The sheave is, of course grooved for wire but seems smooth enough so that it will not abrade the line. I'll probably rout out a new profile if a rope halyard works out but, I'm not going to burn that bridge until after a season using the Dyneema.