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post #48 of Old 12-13-2012
night0wl
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Re: Wiring & Installing A Battery Monitor

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
You may not. Check the manual for:

Ith: Current threshold. When the current measured falls below this value it will be considered as zero Amps. With this function it is possible to cancel out very small currents that can negatively affect long term state-of-charge readout in noisy environments. For example if an actual long term current is +0.05 A and due to injected noise or small offsets the battery monitor measures 0.05 A, in the long term the BMV can incorrectly indicate that the battery needs recharging. When in this case Ith is set to 0.1, the BMV calculates with 0.0 A so that errors are eliminated. A value of 0.0 disables this function.


Insert a DVM measuring mA and check to see that you really have phantom load. The easiest way to check Ith is to disconnect all the "loads" and see what the monitor reads when only connected to the battery with NOTHING else in the path other than the battery. If it is not reading zero wwhen only conencted to the battery, with nothing else conencted to the battery then it is an Ith/noise issue whcih can be adjusted out. This is a step you want to perform anyway...
Just following up on this....ancient history.

I realized the "leak". Beneteau, in their infinite wisdom, put 28 teeeny tiny LEDs on the breaker panel to illuminate each switch. Together, as long as the negative on the boat is "on", these draw 0.1 - 0.15 amps....CONSTANTLY. *ugh*!! Over the course of a weekend on the hook, thats 5 aH, which is enough to power my fridge for 1 hour!

I have to install a "switch" to turn these lights on and off. But seriously Beneteau...why?!

S/V Jendai
Beneteau 343
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