SailNet Community banner
  • SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Low buck projects- Let's see 'em!

858K views 2K replies 341 participants last post by  pdqaltair 
#1 ·
In this forum, we've seen big projects on small boats and small projects on big boats- let's see the cheap projects! Show us what you have done on your boat on a budget.
Here's the rules:

1) Gotta be under $100 US, or equivalent currency.

2) You must have done it yourself. Although, if you found someone to work on your boat for less than $100, feel free to post contact info.

3) bonus points will be given for elegance and ingenuity.

Here's one of mine:

I needed a cockpit table. Well, I, personally, didn't need a cockpit table, but the admiral did, and I need a warm place to sleep, so you can see how the stars aligned on this one. I sussed out commercially available, marine priced cockpit tables and promptly gagged. So, I thought to myself, "self, you could make it yourself for a lot less." One problem. Well, four actually. I have limited woodworking skills, limited woodworking tools, and limited time. oh yeah, and I am cheap.
So, I went to plan "c".

I spent some time eyeballing the cockpit in question:


Then I moseyed into action. I bought one of these for $29.99


A frenzy of measuring, remeasuring, cutting, screwing, drinking, varnishing, etc. later, and this is how it finished up:



Let's see yours.
 
See less See more
3
#914 ·
Wow, Denise, your workmanship looks great! I guess you do a lot more than bend sheet metal! ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: deniseO30
#916 ·
Nothing like a shower...Engine water heat exchanger. I think Jeep makes one like this. That is where I got the idea. I would assume this would work better with a sealer engine cooling system. Mine is raw water (salt in my case) and has been in use with no issues for over 12 years. I'm not looking to have a hot shower, but just to temper the tank water. Be very careful, the water can start off scolding hot! I would suggest adding a mixing valve to add cold water and adding a more even temp. and longer run time.

I ran the hot water to a hand held sink type spray head I keep coiled up in the Port Lazarette. Can also be used to wash down the cockpit. Or two birds with one stone.


What this plan does not point out is a 2 1/2" to 3/4" reducer on both ends.


And that would be my rebuilt Graymarine Sea Scoot 91 engine in that pic. Did that myself. Love to keep the original if possible.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jimgo
#918 ·
Put another one of those on it and run engine coolant through it - your engine will love you for it.
 
#917 · (Edited)
PVC winter tarp frame:
No screws, no metal hardware or sharp edges to rip covering, nothing but rope and PVC (boat friendly), easy to set up and easy to store and open inside space for working. Can be made taller or shorter for your needs.



With the pitched short roof snow was not an issue so no structural ridge beam is needed, as long as there is no roof load. You can also use a 90 deg. elbow at the to ridge to get more pitch, but you will then have to tie center rope off to mast to keep for side to side movement or add interior rope gussets. And if in doubt, add a rope from the 45 deg elbow to the other 45 deg elbow on each frame section.
 
#922 ·
When I did it I didn't have to bend the pvc tubing that much. There was very little bending force on my stanchions. Survived two winters without a problem. Also the tarp is not stressed this way, not like a tarp that is stretched by itself over the boom.
 
#923 · (Edited)
This PVC frame I did build for sailing purpose, but not for covering the boat. I just adapted it for covering a boat for you all. I really don't advocate covering boats, but if you have to cover, it should be an easy good design, so I though I would share. I can not find the pictures of when I had it set up, 60' long, in my back yard, to recondition my mast. Winter project. I now use some of the frames to hole netting up over the coy pond.

To attach the frame I would lash to the outside of the stanchion base only, or if you have a toe rail that has holes in it, and on the outside of life line. Stanchions and life line will be inside the cover and should clear the life line and not touch them. Tarp should be tight enough so no snow or water can not accumulate on top. And when you attach the beam rope tighten it down to squat the frame bending the frame to bow it around. This will give it spring and hold it tight and will not allow for much side to side movement. If you make the top two PVC pipe longer to make the frame wide enough to clear the life line and stanchions, then bend them in (this will work fine too), you will need to add gusset ropes inside from the side 45 deg elbows across to the base of the frame to keep cover from swaying. Tying off to the mast will eliminate most swaying and or planing to use the boom just under the frame will work too.

If you would like me to show these options in plan form, I will be happy to do so.

Think spring!
Eric
 
#924 ·
I made a similiar frame from pvc years ago and its still going strong. If it will help, several points that have worked well on my frame...I drilled 2 holes in pvc center ridge about every three feet
for 3/4" ribs which pass though center ridge and connected 2 pieces of the 3/4"
rib material as needed then cut to desired size , they fit into holes in pvc that run along
(inside) port and starboard toe rails.(ribs and all numbered) This creates tension that works well and can be carried all the way back to the stern. Another big help is using plastic ties to hold things in place when setting up and from wind, come spring they cut off real easy.
Pretty strong, stands up to wind and snow.
Hope this helps.... Hugo
Thumbnails

Above post was from prev. thread.... but the pictures just wouldn't travel with copied text. If any interest in pictures they are on thread titled...
"I just don't get it. Winter storage " 2/16/2011 post # 31....frame is really a thing of beauty.
Sorry but when it comes to sailnet and pictures "I just don't get it!"
 
#926 ·
I made a similiar frame from pvc years ago and its still going strong. If it will help, several points that have worked well on my frame...I drilled 2 holes in pvc center ridge about every three feet
for 3/4" ribs which pass though center ridge and connected 2 pieces of the 3/4"
rib material as needed then cut to desired size , they fit into holes in pvc that run along
(inside) port and starboard toe rails.(ribs and all numbered) This creates tension that works well and can be carried all the way back to the stern. Another big help is using plastic ties to hold things in place when setting up and from wind, come spring they cut off real easy.
Pretty strong, stands up to wind and snow.
Hope this helps.... Hugo
Thumbnails








I copied the entire post from the other thread because there are some really good ideas here! And, it took me a while to find the damned thread for some reason. linky

Thanks Hugo! BTW, you can get the images by hitting the quote button on the post, then copying the code.
 
#927 · (Edited)
The problem with any flat top, is snow is going to accumulate. There is no need for structural ridge beam. If you think that will hold snow or any cover can, good luck with that.

And keep in mind this is a low buck project...under $100. 5 or 6 frames of my design (for a 32' boat) and about $10 each frame and 3 3/8"x100' rope from Walmart for $5 each. Project is frame only, no tarp cost. Project is not how to cover, but how to build a cheap frame that will hold up.
 
#928 ·
Looking at these frame designs I cannot see how/if the tarp is attached to the frame at any point.Can someone enlighten me on this subject please.In New Zealand we do not have a snow problem per sec,my interest lies in building a frame to cover a boat when out of the water for major refurbish.-Thanks-Chris
 
#929 ·
When I did this the tarp wasn't attached to the frame. It was attached to the toerail with cord and/or bungees, just using the frame for support. That is the advantage of this as there is less strain on the tarp. When the tarp is just over the boom as many do it has to be tight and wears out a lot faster.
 
#930 ·
...When the tarp is just over the boom as many do it has to be tight and wears out a lot faster.
.. and when the sail and cover are left on, just as hard on the sailcover too!
 
#932 ·
Refinished tiller.

The only thing I had to buy for this project was some low density filler to add to some epoxy. So I spent around $14 just for this project. Sandpaper, varnish, mineral spirits, scraper, were already on hand.

The handle end of my tiller had split apart and varnish had failed so it was not looking very good. I had to remove a couple small dowel rods by the handle, scrape off the old varnish, filled the split with epoxy, then sanded with 80 grit, to 100 and 220. Between coats of varnish, I used 220 to rough it up for the next coat. The varnish I used is Epifanes Gloss Clear that I have used previously on a couple handrails.

Here's some pictures of this project.





Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content










Larger pictures can be found on the write up I did for my blog: Rhapsody: Tiller Time

I really like how it came out. I'm looking forward to how it will look back on the boat this next season.
 
#933 ·
Refinished tiller.

The only thing I had to buy for this project was some low density filler to add to some epoxy. So I spent around $14 just for this project. Sandpaper, varnish, mineral spirits, scraper, were already on hand.
<Snip>
I really like how it came out. I'm looking forward to how it will look back on the boat this next season.
NICE JOB!!! LOOKS GREAT.

Greg
 
#936 ·
Floor Wood Vehicle Deck Boat


This is my newest "on the cheap" project. I bought a case (10 piece) of outdoor eucalyptus tiles. I had to trim the last two to fit around the base of the tiller. This was the dry fit and they work perfectly. Now I have to trim the tabs off the sides. I paid $50.00 on Amazon. I don't expect that these will last for years and years, but, it beats $500 for a custom made teak sole...
 
#937 ·
Vehicle Room Wood Boat Plywood


Water transportation Boat Skiff Vehicle Picnic boat

Here's my second Low Buck project that I completed recently. When I bought the boat it had smoked plexiglass drop boards that really didn't fit the design of a classic boat. So, I purchased some furniture grade plywood and cut them using the old boards as a template. After sanding, staining, and four coats of marine varinish, at a cost of around $30, I had new drop boards!
 
#938 ·
View attachment 17570

View attachment 17578
Here's my second Low Buck project that I completed recently. When I bought the boat it had smoked plexiglass drop boards that really didn't fit the design of a classic boat. So, I purchased some furniture grade plywood and cut them using the old boards as a template. After sanding, staining, and four coats of marine varinish, at a cost of around $30, I had new drop boards!
Oddly, I did the inverse of that, I made a plexi drop board to allow more light into my old boat. Man, is Plexiglass ever expensive. Yours look great. A word of advice, pay careful attention to the edges of the plywood. If the finish gets worn enough to allow moisture in, your plywood will delaminate. You may want to put a fresh coat on the edges each year. For more protection, you could remove the varnish on the edge and do a coat of epoxy, then cover with varnish. It will then be much more impervious.
 
#940 ·
The best treatment for "outdoor" edges on ply is to trim them back a smidge and edge them with solid hardwood.

Makes a much better "running" surface for them to slide on as well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ritchard
#942 ·
Dehumidifer with large reservoir

I bought one of those peltier dehumidifiers to keep the moisture at bay when I am away from the boat. I live in NC, so ... well .. it can get humid.



This one has a removable tank and an auto shutoff when the tank is full. It holds a few cups of water ... less than a quart.

But I found that, in the summer, the unit could fill that little tank in less than a week. I decided to modify the thing with larger capacity but still retain the auto off feature.

I ordered 2 of these:


A plastic storage box with lid ($10 at target)

A timer ($5 at target)

and a 4" piece of scrap 1/2 PVC.

It can easily run for weeks on end without filling up the tank, and the shut off feature is retained. The container has tight lid so the moisture removed does not return to the cabin. It significantly increases the amount of moisture the humidifier can remove. Now I can rest assured that the little humidifier is doing its job even when I am away from the boat for 2 or 3 weeks at a time (which sadly I am sometimes)



used a forstner bit to drill the hole, though its probably not the best choice for plastic. (it's what I had)
 
#943 · (Edited)
Re: Dehumidifer with large reservoir

I bought one of those peltier dehumidifiers to keep the moisture at bay when I am away from the boat. I live in NC, so ... well .. it can get humid.

Amazon.com - Bionaire BDQ01-UC Mini Dehumidifier - Mini Dehumidifers

This one has a removable tank and an auto shutoff when the tank is full. It holds a few cups of water ... less than a quart.

But I found that, in the summer, the unit could fill that little tank in less than a week. I decided to modify the thing with larger capacity but still retain the auto off feature.

I ordered 2 of these:
Amazon.com: 1/2'' UNISEAL Flexible Tank Adapter (bulkhead): Pet Supplies

A plastic storage box with lid ($10 at target)

A timer ($5 at target)

and a 4" piece of scrap 1/2 PVC.

It can easily run for weeks on end without filling up the tank, and the shut off feature is retained. The container has tight lid so the moisture removed does not return to the cabin. It significantly increases the amount of moisture the humidifier can remove. Now I can rest assured that the little humidifier is doing its job even when I am away from the boat for 2 or 3 weeks at a time (which sadly I am sometimes)
Impressive work, but why not just run a hose to a sink drain? Then it can pull out lots and lots of water.
 
#945 ·
I think this is a low buck project because it is replacing my inboard engine. I made a yuloh. The inboard had too many issues that would of taken too much time and money to repair. I am putting it in low buck thread to response to several guys in barefootnavigator`s thread about living on $500 a month, but didn`t want to disturb his thread. He has also made a yuloh and there were others that started asking about it and if there was someone who had information about it. It took me $300 in material, 2 years of research, emails, web searching, building, experimenting, and re-building to build mine, so here is my 2 cents. I`ll get pictures out as soon as I get my lazy a$$ off the couch.
I know there are those that would rather have oars and if they work for you, great. This isn`t an argument for either or. They are better for close quarters manuevering , lighter displacement boats, or crewed boats, but my need is for long distance with the minimum of ease, singlehanded, on a heavy displacement boat.
Several sources of information were used courtesy of the internet. What a great invention…sometimes.
Slieve who runs the junkrigassociation.org wrote an indepth and excellent article titled “Some Thoughts on the Yuloh” analyzing it. It is found on his sight or just by googling “Slieve yuloh”. He admits to never have built one, but he is spot on in his thoughts and very helpful to answer any questions by email.
Ben Fuller on woodenboat forum and a handful of other members were also helpful as a sounding board. Ben`s description of the yuloh is that it is like low gear in a truck. Slow, but strong to move a big load. Yuloh in their search window will give you a lot to read.
Another good start to make the size can be found both with Slieve and within Larry Pardey`s book “The Self Sufficient Sailor”. He states that it isn`t really a matter of length of the boat, but of the freeboard height. I used his book suggestions because our boats are 95% similar in dimension. I first had a oar like his, but to impart the twist needed over a long distance wore me the HE// out, so I started to look for better ways.
Of course youtube has a load of videos, but you have to search for “Yuloh, Zhujiajiao,China” to get an original view. Don`t rely on the many western copies also found on youtube. They are just hybreds anyway. The Chinese videos are the ones to watch over and over and over and over and over and over again and again and again. Watching different ones gives clues into different details one video has over the others. A key point to look for is the pivot point between boat and yuloh. You`ll figure it out.
Lastly as luck or providence would have it, I found ($3 in a fleamarket) G.R.G Worcester `s book “The Junks & Sampans of the Yangtze”. It`s a fascinating book in and of itself, but for me it had many .examples, tips and tricks of the yuloh in action back in the day and life of a chinese waterman. That is a cool book for reference. If you can get a copy, it`s worth it, but not necessary to have to build one.
In the end, after measuring once and cutting twice with a lot of cohogitating, I have a yuloh I am confident in even though I think its 30cm too long in its shaft and slightly over built, but better overbuilt than underbuilt. Sound all this like overkill to you? Maybe, but that`s what makes it fun messing about in boats.
 
Top