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Re: another pre-paint question
would it be reasonably possible to sand the nonskid smooth to achieve that one-inch line? I am thinking that the gelcoat is thicker where the bumpy non-skid is, and that with a bit of care I should be able to get it sanded flat and smooth before ending up at the glass underneath. I see the challenge as confining the sanding to this one inch strip only, not over-sanding into the non-skid field I want to leave undisturbed.
Or maybe I don't really care, as the Kiwigrip will cover the sanded area outside my one inch line so that it will all match anyhow.
Older gelcoat sands down pretty quick to the fiberglass below. Textured non-skid is actually pretty easy to remove (use something like 80 grit to start with). My decks were like an earthquake zone with cracks, so I have a lot of experience sanding down and repairing decks. I did not get real picky since I too am using kiwigrip and the texture hides blemishes underneath. I made sure I sealed everything with epoxy and sanded smooth since the kiwigrip needs a secure surface to bond to. I assumed the kiwigrip does not add any protection to the surface underneath, only traction for my feat, hence the epoxy below it. I did my entire boat in brightsides and loved it. My biggest problem was not technique or chemistry (i went w/ brush on the decks, roller for the hull) but large dust particles in my work area. Had to wet sand the 1st coat with 320 grit and re-apply. Wet sanding brightsides is super easy if you wait about 4-5 days 1st. I used the pre-kote primer and thinned it with the interlux thinner. Prekote is really thick stuff and you may end up putting it on too thick at first so watch that. Lots of thin coats work better.
Hope this helps, Bruce