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Old 02-21-2013
knuterikt knuterikt is offline
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Re: Replacing standing rigging

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lissa View Post
We have a Cal 39 and the standing rigging is over 10 years old and the halyard has a fray. Plan to replace all rigging at once, including roller furler.

We sail frequently so want to decrease the down time. Another consideration is that we are poor so want to do this as cheaply as possible, and don't want to remove the mast.

Is it possible to do this ourselves? Did it before on a Catalina 30 with a tabernacle mast, but this is more complicated
Why replace the furler, if it's working ok servicing it might be less money.

If the mast hasn't been off the boat for 10 years it might be time for a thorough inspection.
It's easier to do with the mast down..

Replace the frayed halyard before starting to climb the mast, You need two good halyards to climb the mast.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lissa View Post
Can get a discount at West Marine (Port Supply), but there may be a cheaper option?

Been told that Port Supply might have lower quality 316 stainless - is that true and should we be concerned?
Don't know

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lissa View Post
So is it possible to do all this ourselves, including measuring? We're in Honolulu with constant winds - how can we accurately measure?

How do you start replacing cables with the mast in place?
If I was to do this with mast up this is the way I would do it.
  • Use tape to mark how far in the turnbuckles is set
  • Take some turns of all the turnbuckles (so the mast does not bend when you remove one shroud)
  • Rig a temporary stay using a halyard or tie a rope to the mast - use a block&tackle to tension the temporary stay/shroud (if needed)
  • Take the shroud/stay down, copy and replace
  • After you have replaced all - tune the rig

Copying the old ones is the best way to get correct length, depending on how much the turnbuckle was tightened you may adjust the length of the new one. Riggers also adjust the length for stretch (don't have this number at hand)

Use screw on fittings of good quality (stalok or ..)
Or find a local rigger to put on swage terminals

If possible I would take the mast down, don't think the "downtime" is shorter with the mast up.
My rigger (who made the new wires when I replaced my rigging), does not replace standing rigging with the mast up.
  • Easier to inspect the mast when down
  • Faster: less climbing in the mast, easier access

Last edited by knuterikt; 02-21-2013 at 05:35 AM.
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