Any of you guys owning a nimbus out there able to take a photo of the helm steering setup down below, and of the mechanisms that hold the engine hatch on? My helm had been removed but the sheaves, quadrant, and such are still there, but they look unoriginal. My engine hatch was glued down and missing what I assume was hatch locks. Any help would be very appreciated.
Sorry, I don't have pictures, but I can describe the setup of both.
The steering pedestal setup was from Yacht Specialties (no longer available), not Edson and had a sheave box bolted onto the bottom of the cockpit sole. I think it may have been some non-standard sheave box and/or farther forward than it should have been, can't recall for sure. Quadrant travel was limited by some big fiberglass bosses tabbed into the hull on each side of the quadrant.
And the rudder... If you want to lay awake at night and worry, ask me about the inside of my rudder...
I changed up my steering years ago when I installed autopilot. I think I reused the original sheave box and relocated it a few inches aft or maybe turned it around to take advantage of the built in stop, or I may have got a different one. Anyway, it now has a pin extending down from the sheave box casting down into the quadrant to limit its travel and I removed the fiberglass stops from the hull.
It also had criss-crossing cockpit drains fiberglassed up under the deck that were just stupid and caused standing water in the cockpit when healed. Now that mess is all removed and I just ran the cockpit drains through a Tee and down to their respective through-hulls.
The engine cover is also a really bad design. It's got a very shallow lip as you can probably still see, and doesn't channel water forward to the drain. On my boat, the aft end of that channel (opposite the drain) sits lower than the forward end (where the drains are) even when the bow tank is empty. And it can't drain to the rear because the area where the pedestal sits in about 1-1/2" higher than the lip. So the water and any sediments accumulate in that aft end of the drainage channel.
The hatch had neoprene foam as a seal, but it was not effective. Rainwater would always make it through the seal onto the motor because there is really no way to clamp it down; it just uses a bronze hatch lift fore and aft (like ABI #AA51027B TURNING LOCK HATCH LIFT HANDLES ). And it would take a huge force to effectively clamp a sealing area that large anyway.
I think gluing it shut is the only way to solve the leaking without major fabrication.
Building the lip up a bit higher with a knife-edge could form an effective seal without requiring monstrous clamping forces. I figured I'd screw/5200 a square hoop of 1/8" AL or stainless inside the aperture and bring the lip up another 1-1/2" or so to form a much deeper channel and bring the hatch cover up to the same level as the adjacent fiberglass under the pedestal (do away with the teak sole insert). Then ideally build a new hatch cover too.
I've still got my hatch, but there's apiece of plywood and caulk under the teak cockpit floor right now.