I may not be remembering the original steering sheave arrangement properly. Now you mention it, left and right sheaves on brackets sounds familiar. And I remember the cables coming in at an angle I did't like; sheaves too far forward maybe. It was a loooong time ago.
I think maybe I picked up a used yacht specialties or edson sheave box. As I recall, I've got more rudder articulation than with the original fiberglass bump-stops out beside the quad. Picture a ~1-1/4" dia pin hanging down inside quadrant to limit travel. It's about as much articulation as possible without interference problems on the rudder skeg and I'm real happy with the turning radius.
For the A/P, I looked at adding its own tiller, but maybe had trouble finding the right one, and maybe there's not enough keyway on the shaft for both? Anyway, couldn't come up with a good tiller solution, so I bolted an AL plate to the top of the quad and that freed me up to set my own A/P tiller length, so that rudder articulation is limited by steering stop (big pin), not the A/P. I'll be down by the boat tomorrow and maybe can take some pictures of it.
On the rudder, I had problems with the gland leaking, so in the course of messing with that (gotta remove quad and key first) I discovered that it has a really small bronze bearing inside. And my top bearing was a complete joke, only secured to the fiberglass with 4x #10 bronze screws. Yeah, it moved around a LOT underway. So I made some big delrin bearings; one just a 4" long sleeve and one with a big flange. Put the sleeve in the gland and repacked, and fiberglassed the flanged one in where the little top bearing used to be. And reinforced that upper well that the bearing sits in.
Inside the rudder was a much worse story. It was all full of water, so I took it apart and found that the beefy 3" stainless stock extends down into the rudder only about 6 inches!!!!!!
The design specifies 24" as I recall, but in mine, the rudder armature was just butted and welded up against the bottom of the stainless stock. It's probably a good thing that the upper bearing was wallowing around and letting the skeg take most of the load, or else the rudder probably would have fatigued itself in two and fallen off the boat. I've got some old pictures of that somewhere. I don't know if they were all like that, but mine was not build to spec (hull #16) and it was a shock to M Kaufmann.
Sure, I'll see what I can do about the drawings. Probably take a couple weeks to get around to it though.