Just Bought a 1967 35 Alberg Ericson Sloop - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of Old 04-28-2010
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Time will tell if the OP is a lucky guy or not, but an insurance company won't get beyond the propane storage.

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post #22 of Old 05-02-2010
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If you guys are looking to buy a sailboat you should check Spectrum Yachts in Savannah, GA. Ask For Jim Bulluck he is a real nice guy, and Way better than any Broker I have ever met before Spectrum Yachts
I put $ down on a 1979 Hunter 33 today brokered by Jim. Very nice guy. Thanks for the tip
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post #23 of Old 05-02-2010 Thread Starter
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Cool graypenguin, congrats on your new boat, It looks very nice. Thanks for the picture too
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post #24 of Old 05-02-2010 Thread Starter
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LOL I have a new boat, and my home port is going to be an oil slick now Im not sure where to go? Thanks BP for ruining the Gulf of Mexico!
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post #25 of Old 05-10-2010
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I bought an A35 last year and have done much work to her, including replacing a forward bulkhead. It CAN be done but you will have interior damage to repair. Here's what worked well: 1. Remove as much of the rotten plywood as you can by hand/chisel/scraper, etc., leaving the fiberglass "pocket" in place. You can accomplish final clean out of the pocket very well with a drill mounted 5/8" or 3/4" rasp on a LONG drill extension. This will really clear out any remaining wood and clean up the pocket's glass surfaces. 2. Cut a template of paper to fit the curvature of the hull by trial and error, taping on pieces to get it close. You can measure to some fixed point to create the first arc of the hull. This is pretty easy with some stiff paper, tape and a flashlight. 3. Cut a piece of 3/4" plywood using the template. Trial fit and grind plywood in places until it fits snugly. The hull side seems to taper in the last inch or so. Actually I think the original piece was not fitted very well and there was a void in places near the hull. Mark it so when you epoxy, it is in proper place. I pieced the plywood longitudinally and epoxied the inboard piece with biscuits to make fitting the piece against the hull easier. This worked out well because the business portion of the bulkhead where chainplates bolt is in the outboard piece. 4. Saturate the pocket with lightly thickened West epoxy. You want to use enough to fill voids but not so much that it creates blockage pressure. 5. Hammer the plywood in so that it is at your marks. 6.Put second piece in with epoxy and biscuits. 7. As it is impossible to clamp this, screw from both sides to make sure glass is tight against plywood 8. Clean up...it's a mess. Make sure you wear an appropriate breathing apparatus. The epoxy fumes are nasty in enclosed areas like this. I moved my chainplates outboard. There is no way to make the old chainplate deck penetrations permanently waterproof. With all the core rot I replaced, did not want to do it again. If you have a 40 year old boat, there is core rot.
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post #26 of Old 06-09-2010 Thread Starter
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Thank you for the help SMurphny, Our bulkheads after inspection were ok it's just a little piece of wood that rotted out under the bulk heads. My problem is not with bulk heads it's a piece of my deck has a soft spot on the starboard side which I am going to brace up with a piece of 2x4.
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post #27 of Old 06-09-2010
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Thank you for the help SMurphny, Our bulkheads after inspection were ok it's just a little piece of wood that rotted out under the bulk heads. My problem is not with bulk heads it's a piece of my deck has a soft spot on the starboard side which I am going to brace up with a piece of 2x4.

......What? I think you should inspect this further. Is the deck soft due to delamination or is it wet? Bracing it with a 2x4 sounds like something I might do for my garage but not my boat. What is this little piece of wood under the bulkhead? Is this trim? Is it floors? Stringers? Doesn't sound too serious but you should repair this properly.
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post #28 of Old 06-09-2010
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Use Black Locust or White Oak, something that's good for marine conditions. A 2X4 will rot and that rot will spread in no time. Rot spores are like mold spores. They will find other wood (like deck cores) to eat...

Baggett and Sons Marine Restoration
The Landing at Colony Wharf
Bellingham, WA.

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post #29 of Old 06-09-2010
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Core rot

I would echo the above comment about core rot. My boat had extensive core rot as do many, if not most, boats of this vintage. It is a messy, expensive (West System, balsa core mat, roving, and cloth) job to replace the deck core and not for the faint of heart! If the decks feel soft under foot and you get a hollow sound when tapping around or if the stanchions move when you walk near them, there is core rot. Core rot under the steering pedestal is particularly critical.
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post #30 of Old 06-26-2010
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Quote:
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LOL I have a new boat, and my home port is going to be an oil slick now Im not sure where to go? Thanks BP for ruining the Gulf of Mexico!
Exactly, this is what happened to me a month after I bought my new to me boat. Now here it is almost the end of June, and the gulf is basically off limits to recreational boats. Thank god for Lake Ponchartrain or sailing and boating would both be off limits.

Tim
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Hunter 33

"The sound of the sea, is becoming very familiar to me."
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