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  #11  
Old 11-01-2010
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John,

You are correct in that heating fuel and offroad are the same per say, they "should/could" have more sulfur than the road fuels.......please note, I said should and or could! In reality, many times the offroad, or marina purchased or home fuels will be one of the low sulfur but with the red dye in it so if it is put into an over the road rig, the dye will stay visible to something like 1 part per million or lower. Then you get BIG fines. It should burn the same.

Altho, I will admit, one would have to wonder how well the dye is able to burn itself, hence why some of the red dyed fuels may be causing some issues with different furnaces.

I doubt alchohol will be introduced to diesel fuels, as I am recalling, they do not mix well, but bio diesel does get put in to some diesel mixes, Which could cause some issues in some burners. I have not heard of any, but I would not throw that possiblity out.

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  #12  
Old 11-02-2010
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Fuels

Here is what we know right now:

Sulfur:

Highway #2 diesel fuels have been regulated for several years concerning sulfur content, with ultra low sulfur (>15ppm) being mandated. This sulfur level is supposed to have been adopted in full by last July for marine diesel #2at the dockside, but there may remain supplies until late 2010.

We are not aware of any issues facing small diesel fired marine furnaces of any brand as a result of current or future diesel sulfur levels. There is some improvement to the smell of lower sulfur diesel as a liquid, nothing appreciable in terms of exhaust smell, since correctly running furnaces should have no significant smoke or smell once they are up and running.

We do not see any reason to seek out highway fuel for your Wallas products any longer, since the marine fuel sulfur levels are now supposed to meet the ultra low standard that has been on highway for many years now. This should mean that smell concerns about the liquid fuel are no longer warranted.

Biodiesel:

Biodiesel content in highway fuels will vary from location to location. Highway fuels are typically limited to 10% biodiesel (AKA B10) and this number could go higher, depending on legislation. Marine fuels also vary in their biodiesel content from location to location with a limit around 10% currently, due in part to the limits allowed by diesel engine manufacturers.

While Wallas products are not intended for use with pure biodiesel, we know there are many in the field using the diesel/bio fuel hybrids showing up at the pumps and we can't associate any problems in our products as a result of diesel up to a B10 rating.

Handling Biofuels:

One of the key elements involved with using biofuels, both biodiesel and gasoline with ethanol is that these fuels do not tend to be as stable as pure diesel or pure gasoline. In gasoline, the ethanol component can convert to water over time and the bio component of biodiesel also will break down if unused. These characteristics can cause problems for diesel and gasoline engines respectively.

Whether old biodiesel at the B10 rating and below will cause problems for diesel boat furnaces and heaters remains to be seen, however we can't trace any of these problems into Wallas products so far. It is much more likely that old biodiesel might cause a problem for diesel engines, particularly modern ones with very high injection pressures.

Recommended fuels:

The following fuels represent the only fuels we recommend for use in Wallas diesel products: #2 diesel, both on and off highway (includes marine), #1 diesel (home heating oil), kerosene, JP4 (kerosene turboprop aircraft fuel) and Klean Heat.

Thank you.

Doug at Scan
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  #13  
Old 11-02-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stillraining View Post
I was wondering about that John...I could not remember the brand you installed.....Which model and whats the REAL world amp draw and fuel burn rate.
I took some amp readings with nothing else running and no input coming in from solar on our Wallas 40D.

At start up there was an initial draw of 2-3 amps for less than a minute and then during the ignition period it was 4.5 - 5.5 amps which took app. two or three minutes. During ignition I had the rheostat? set at "2" (1-6 range).

After ignition it dropped to 1.3-4 amps while set at "2". I dropped it to the lowest setting and it was drawing .8 amps, at "1" 1.1 amps, "4" 1.9 amps, "6+" (highest) 2.5 amps.

We normally run it between 2 and 3 during the winter when temps are generally 35-45F and it keeps us toasty.
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