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Go Back   SailNet Community > General Interest Forums > Gear & Maintenance > Atomic 4
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Old 07-09-2009
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The Indigo kit is neat, but in my experience it's not necessary...I would get a PCV kit from them first. What you may find helpful if you ever intend to haul the engine for repair or a paint job is tapping the oil pan and putting in a 90 degree elbow, a petcock and a short length of hose to a small hand pump. This gives you the ability to change the oil "white glove style" after a nice run to get it hot and easily flowing. Pump out the old, pour in the new, turn off the stopcock, and you're done. This and the "basket filter" between the water pump and the block are the two best modifications I've made, with the fuel/water separator and separate fuel shut-off mounted on the aft bulkhead coming after that.
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Old 07-09-2009
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When I looked at the moyer oil change fittings - they were $40. The oil filter kit was only $40 more and it gave me all the fittings/ports to wire up the electric fuel pump switch. As far as changing the oil - it provides a port to suck the old oil out of the pan - its literally a white glove process.

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Old 07-12-2009
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I like the idea of the oil filter kit, but is it really necessary? The Atomic 4 doesn't have an air filter either. My Atomic 4 came with the Moyer Marine oil change fittings and this system works well. I like keeping things simple.

BTW, I like the blue oil collection canister in dman535's picture. It looks sturdy and stable. Gotta get me one of those.
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Old 07-13-2009
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Most marine engines don't have an air filter as they operate in dust free environments. Given the large variety of detergent oils and the cost for a rebuild - I figured it was cheap insurance.
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Old 07-14-2009
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Good point about detergent oil and the cost for a rebuild or a new engine. Definitely something to think about for anyone wanting to extend the life of their engine.
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Old 07-20-2009
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There's another old A4 method to drain your oil. Many folks have "Teed" a brass spigot fitting into the oil pressure gauge hose with an approximate 2ft.
hose that will allow you to use the engine oil pump to drain itself.
Depending on the mounting angle and type of transmission there always will be some below the oil screen that you'll not get. The warm running engine will pump itself easier than trying to keep the dipstick pump all the way into the oil pan.
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Old 07-20-2009
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I thought about that approach. My only concern is that one screw up and you spin a bearing or some other casualty. Getting the oil outlet to the front of the engine makes all the difference. No going through the dipstick hole. The Indigo kit as a 4 inch tube on the end of the oil return 3/4" fitting - so it digs deep down into the pan.
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