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post #1 of 11 Old 03-10-2010 Thread Starter
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plug blues

I have an atomic 4 in my pearson 10m , 1974


spark plug is rusted in cyl #1, engine runs but plug hasnt been changed for 3 years. Now that its my boat, I'd like to fix that.. I tried wd 40..afraid to break it off..

how do I know if I have a direct drive or v drive? where can I read up on these?

I'd like to try and change the impeller as well..I think I need more than wd 40..
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post #2 of 11 Old 03-10-2010
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Try Power Blast aka PB Blaster. Spray the offending area, tap it a few times with a hammer, and let sit. Repeat several times a day if possible for a week, then try removing the plug. Warning: Power Blast has been known to melt things not made of metal.
On another issue, I'm impressed that your engine cranks with the amount of corrosion showing on your battery terminals. You need to apply some serious elbow grease to that engine's rust issues.

Straight drive is one straight shaft running from the engine aft to the propellor. A vee drive runs initially from the engine towards the bow, then forms a vee and goes back to the prop.

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post #3 of 11 Old 03-10-2010
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Holy Rust! Yea, PB Blaster is the preferred solution. Mystery oil might work too. Maybe focus on fixing known issues like rust before worrying about things that still work.
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post #4 of 11 Old 03-10-2010
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Given the photo, I would highly recommend disassembling the entire engine and treating it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by acceri View Post
I have an atomic 4 in my pearson 10m , 1974


spark plug is rusted in cyl #1, engine runs but plug hasnt been changed for 3 years. Now that its my boat, I'd like to fix that.. I tried wd 40..afraid to break it off..

how do I know if I have a direct drive or v drive? where can I read up on these?

I'd like to try and change the impeller as well..I think I need more than wd 40..
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post #5 of 11 Old 03-12-2010 Thread Starter
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I was considering that..I would have to remove it,take it apart, break some stuff in the process (bolts at least) ,clean it up and put it together...
If I go through all of that (and break some stuff), I might as well rebuild it..I have never rebuilt an engine. Moyer for $5,000 ..,pay someone to get it out,then in and ship it ..both ways..
So what do you think $15,000 ?

I think I'll try cleaning up rust, replace frozen plug, rebuild carb, replace impeller, replace belts and hoses, replace thermostat, replace points...see how that works first..and if I dont snap some bolts I could get delay the rebuild and $15,000..

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post #6 of 11 Old 03-12-2010
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A rebuild shouldn't cost that much. $11-12,000 would get you a new diesel installed, with new bedding and exhaust system. A rebuild requires no modification, just unbolt remove and replace. Still, your plan is worth trying. Check the compression and make sure the exhaust manifold is not leaking seawater into the exhaust. Then replace the parts you mention.
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post #7 of 11 Old 03-12-2010
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" break some stuff in the process (bolts at least)"
Seriously, PBlaster is nothing like WD40. It makes snapping bolts very unlikely.
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post #8 of 11 Old 03-25-2010
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$15k rebuild? Try a $10k repower instead.

Or...use PB Blaster, which much more effective at loosening struck hardware in my experience than WD40. Be cautious of overspray and what the PB Blaster comes in contact with. Also, have you tried removing the plug after the engine has been recently run so that the block is warm? Cold blocks/plugs are more difficult to remove than warm plugs.

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post #9 of 11 Old 03-25-2010
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how do I know if I have a direct drive or v drive? where can I read up on these?



Moyer Marine Atomic 4 Engine Rebuilding and Parts Everything you want to know about the A-4 and then some. Dan S/V Marian Claire
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post #10 of 11 Old 03-29-2010
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impeller

changing my impeller was one of the first things i did. make sure you seacock is alway open when you fire, else those little impellers burn up pretty quick. when i yanked the old one it barely had 1/2 a fin left...

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