How much gas in the carb?

[QuickMick]

after yanking a bunch of stuff apart and putting it together my engine wasnt getting fuel. i figured out that there was an electric fuel pump--now i dont think it was actually a pump, but rather an emergency shut off valve--that had shut off the fuel supply when its power was cut.

so, i just removed it.

i turned the engine over, she tried to fire to no avail. i stuck my finger down in the carb and it was slightly moist. how much fuel should be in there as she is turning over? by firing her off with that damn shut-off valve closed is there a particular procedure i need to follow to 're-wet' the system with gas? i think my problem may be that there is too much air in the line... if that is the case, how should i go about fixing it?

or, if im wayyyyy off base and place i should look? she was doing fine until i started meddeling around.... as usual....

thanks guys and gals

[tommays]

Do you still have the manual fuel pump ?

The A4 manual pump has a priming lever that can pump huge amounts of fuel and if so you can remover the carb bowl drain and flush it with fresh fuel

I found after doing soaking the carb and putting a rebuild kit in the carb and fuel pump my motor it started in seconds

There was a huge amount of dirt in the fuel pump and carb

[QuickMick]

yes... the chain went-elec auto shut off--->fuel filter--->pump (the one mounted on engine). now it goes the same way, minus the elec override

is the lever of which you speak on top of the pump? or is that the pump housing 'latch'?

[tommays]

Its a V-shaped wire lever on the pump were it bolts on the motor

You may have to bump over the motor to get the full effect if the camshaft is in the pumping position

[QuickMick]

thanks... there will be some pumping action tonight!!

[RichH]

Mic - Do you have an electric fuel pump in the system? Yes or No?

If yes, there will most probably be a safety switch on the pump that is connected to an oil pressure sensor switch (usually 'under' the Oil pressure transducer). This switch will cut off the fuel pump any time the oil pressure is below a certain set point. The switch is there to shut off the fuel, if the engine stops (oil pressure drops). The most common location of this safety switch is on a tee with the OEM oil pressure transducer or pressure gage line/tube.
So, if you have such a 'safety switch' plus electric fuel pump and the engine is not turning over fast enough during the start phase to generate sufficient OIL PRESSURE to close the switch ... you wont get any fuel to the carb. For such low start conditions you need to either 'jump' the safety switch or install a momentary push button bypass switch around the safety switch to energize the pump to start the engine. This 'oil pressure safety switch' on electric fuel pump retrofit is very common on A4s with aftermarket electric fuel pumps (mandatory on gasoline fueled automobile engines).

[QuickMick]

so maybe i shouldnt have removed it from the system?

i was under the impression that the shunt(its not called a shunt but i cant remember the name for it. open/close switch--not a rely... grrrr) would close without power (ignition on) to prevent fuel dischage in the event of a failure in the line--didnt know it was related to oil pressure?

[RichH]

Its was either suppliec by Moyer Marine or Indigo Electronics .... get a copy of the correct wiring diagram and reinstall it. Will save a lot of start 'hassles'; also consider to mount a hard start bypass toggle switch around this safety switch ... . can be done with a 3 pole double throw switch ... then you can also prevent boat theft when the switch is left in the 'middle'/open position.

[travlineasy]

I suspect there are a few things that you'll need to do.

First and foremost, the Atomic 4 carbs are fairly easy to clean, adjust and rebuild. However, they are also quite prone to getting tiny specks of dirt in the fuel system as well. Remove the carburetor, unscrew the top and carefully remove the float mechanism. Next, using canned air, blow out all the ports and openings where a tiny bit of crud can become lodged. It only takes a sand sized speck of dirt to clog the carburetor.

Now, go to the nearest auto parts store and purchase a can of carburetor cleaner. It's a spray/solvent. Be sure to follow the directions and use this stuff outdoors and position yourself upwind of the cleaning spray--it's nasty stuff. This will clean any residue that may be on the jets, vents, etc...

The most critical step is to set the float level. You'll find instructions on this on the Moyer Marine web site. If the gasket(s) are cracked, you can make new ones from gasket material that's available at any auto parts store.

Next, the flame arrestor must be thoroughly cleaned. It takes a fair amount of work to get the flame arrestor spotless, but unless it is completely free of oil and dirt it has a dramatic effect on whether the engine will start or not. I cannot emphasize this step enough. And, DO NOT try to start the engine without first having the flame arrestor in place--this could be very dangerous.

After reassembling the carburetor and reinstalling it on the engine, lift the fuel pump priming lever a few times to fill the carburetor's fuel bowl. Set the throttle at about 1/4 to 1/3, make sure the transmission is in neutral, pull out the choke all the way and try to start the engine. When the engine begins to start, slowly open the choke and back off on the throttle so the engine does not over-rev. Allow the engine to run at high idle speed until the temperature gauge reaches at least 100 degrees.

There are other things that can cause the engine not to start. The Atomic 4 is an incredible engine, but it needs a few things to keep the internal parts in good working condition. Frequent oil changes are a must--at least for those that do not have an oil filter, which is many of the older models.

Another critical item is the addition of Marvel Mystery Oil, which should be added to the gas tank each time you add gasoline. ::Marvel Mystery Oil:: It is an outstanding product that keeps many, many Atomic 4 engines running smooth as a kitten. It's an excellent top cylinder lubricant that keeps the valves free of corrosion, lubricates the valve seats and protects the valve seals. If those valves are not properly lubed and sealed, the engine will not start.

Hope this helps,

Gary