Need Advice on Changing Stuffing Box hose

[Piratesoul]

I need tips, pointers, what not to do, on pulling out the prop shaft to replace the stuffing box hose on my A4.
Thank you, Tom

[wheelhouse]

Pirate Soul,

The hose used for stuffing boxes is significantly thicker than exhaust hose, use the right stuff.

My understanding is that one must pull the rudder in order to pull the shaft.

Of course the shaft flange must come off, that seems to be the biggest issue. Some force it off by placing a socket btwn the two halves & tightening. Others, pull the engine and cut the flange off of the shaft (cutting just the flange NOT THE SHAFT) & and replacing it with new one from Moyer. Been told that using heat was a definite no-no.

r,
cdw

[HPLou]

The following link to Compass Marine is an excellent source for many DYI boat repairs.


Re-Packing A Traditional Stuffing Box Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

[downeast450]

Tom,

I am going to pull the shaft on my I-28 this winter. I need to replace the cutlass bearing and will replace the coupling hose at the same time. Knowing this is on the schedule I have been giving the shaft coupling a small dose of PB Blaster and a couple of "taps" with a ball peen hammer each time I am near by doing something else. I have been doing this for several months anticipating a problem getting it to come loose from the shaft when the time comes. I will schedule the actual removal for a bitterly cold part of the Maine winter and don't see a problem with warming the flange a little. My first choice, along with this preparation, will be to put tension on the joint with a socket that fits into the shaft end of the coupling and allows me to tighten the three bolts progressively. This will, in theory, push the shaft out of the coupling. I am not expecting this to happen quickly and plan to make a trip to the coupling bolts for another fractional turn each time I visit the boat. If it comes loose by the end of March I will consider it "on time and well done". I have always had good luck with blaster, "taps", heat and patience. That is how I got the 2 blade prop off this spring when I replaced that with the 3 blade Indego. That was a good decision, too.

Down

[OPossumTX]

I prefer KROIL but PB Blaster is good too. A little heat helps but too much creates serious problems.

[downeast450]

Yup! OP, just a little heat and a few good taps all around, repeated several times over a few months whenever I am down there fussing with something. Then after haul out the socket / tension gets added to the mix.

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