Would you buy an early 80's cored hull boat? - Page 4 - SailNet Community
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post #31 of 61 Old 09-29-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Would you buy an early 80's cored hull boat?

I was definitely going to use the 33 meter but my concern is that it seems that the boat would need to be completly dry before you could get any accurate measurements of the Hull. No dew or any other moisture of any kind on the outside or inside. I don't know how its done in other area's of the country but around here a survey is typically done in the slings and the boat is not out of the water that long. Maybe it really is like VtSailguy says, you just roll the dice and hope you don't roll snake eyes.
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post #32 of 61 Old 09-29-2013
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Re: Would you buy an early 80's cored hull boat?

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I was definitely going to use the 33 meter but my concern is that it seems that the boat would need to be completly dry before you could get any accurate measurements of the Hull. No dew or any other moisture of any kind on the outside or inside. I don't know how its done in other area's of the country but around here a survey is typically done in the slings and the boat is not out of the water that long. Maybe it really is like VtSailguy says, you just roll the dice and hope you don't roll snake eyes.
You are correct in your misgivings. Do not use a meter on a cored hull unless it has been in the slings at least overnight. You might want to check out
Moisture Meter Mythology

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post #33 of 61 Old 09-30-2013
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Re: Would you buy an early 80's cored hull boat?

For the OP...in short, NO...I would not and did not have a problem buying a boat with a cored hull.

From a Boat US review:
"Construction of the Tartan 37 utilizes balsa wood core material in both the hull and decks. This provides strength, rigidity and results in a relatively light but strong structure. Secondary bonding and filleting of structural members to the hull of the Tartan 37 is some of the best that will be found in any production built boat and it is rare to find any structural problems with these boats, even those that are approaching 20 years old."
BoatUS - Boat Reviews - Tartan 37

And another:
"The hull is hand-laid fiberglass with end-grain balsa coring to improve stiffness without sacrificing weight. In areas of high stress such as the mast-step, through-hull fittings, chainplate terminals, engine supports and keel sections the coring is tapered into solid fiberglass." The Tartan 37 Sailboat : Bluewaterboats.org

Among all the debate I would purchase a well found cored hull before a compromised solid FRP hull. As mentioned, there are most likely a lot more issues regarding cored decks vs cored hulls.

When someone actually produces a study that shows REAL facts that one is better than the other, more than just speculation, it will just be a debate of ones persons opinion over another. Please someone site something tangeable.

I would focus on other things such as the moisture in the deck or perhaps the condition of the rigging. A good survey should be telling, if the results are positive I would not hesitate for a second to make the purchase

Cheers,
Shawn

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post #34 of 61 Old 09-30-2013
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Re: Would you buy an early 80's cored hull boat?

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Originally Posted by contrarian View Post
I was definitely going to use the 33 meter but my concern is that it seems that the boat would need to be completly dry before you could get any accurate measurements of the Hull. No dew or any other moisture of any kind on the outside or inside. I don't know how its done in other area's of the country but around here a survey is typically done in the slings and the boat is not out of the water that long. Maybe it really is like VtSailguy says, you just roll the dice and hope you don't roll snake eyes.
(now that I am back on a PC, instead of that damn phone I can reply...)
Not that you have not already done so, but I recommend that you take your CT-33 meter and thoroughly familiarize yourself with its behavior while checking through bottom paint. Use it on the bottom of a bunch of boats in any yard. Scanning won't hurt the boats, but you will get a feel for when you can, and cannot use the meter.

Many (most?) bottom paints contain copper. Copper, or any metal, will give you a high reading whether or not moisture is present. (The calibration plate for the meter includes a copper film to give it a known reading [14%] at a specific distance from the back of the meter.) The meter may also pick up metal (backing plates, chain, pie plates, fishing gear) that is stowed inside the hull. That being said, you should still use the meter to look for variations in the moisture readings, and then look to rationalize the variation.

In the pic above, I simply scanned along the outside of the hull while walking next to the boat. I noticed the meter as it jumped, and then scanned around that area more thoroughly. Those circles were about 6" in diameter, and they were very subtle. If not for the meter, I don't think that I would have discovered them.

YES the boat should be out of the water for at least a day - longer is better. Since your location and cruising area are secret, I don't know if boats in your area are hauled for the season. However, if I were considering taking ownership of any boat with a cored hull, I would wait to inspect it until after it had been pulled for the season, or spend the extra $200-300 to have it hauled for a couple of days. I would not want to end up paying for a $10K-$100K hull fix.


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Last edited by eherlihy; 09-30-2013 at 09:18 AM.
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post #35 of 61 Old 09-30-2013
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Re: Would you buy an early 80's cored hull boat?

sorry, but not only would i not buy onei wouldnot allow anyone i liked to buy one,either.
solid is awesome cruic¡sing boat--too many thinbgs happen to hulls out here--would not be a good choice for me or for those i know and like the company of.
there are rocks in these anchorages, and some are just below surface.
there are rocks on beach where dragging boats land.
there are rocks everywhere on this coast just waiting for our foul ups to occur..no cored hulls for me, ever.. thankyou.
they are great for light weight and racing boats but i would never cruise a boat with a cored hull. too much happens out here to risk loss of hull in a small ding event or grounding..
i bought this formosa because it is SOLID and can take a beating.
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post #36 of 61 Old 09-30-2013
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Re: Would you buy an early 80's cored hull boat?

Here's some fuel for the fire;
Are They Fiberglass Boats Anymore? by David Pascoe, Marine Surveyor

Not to seem the hater, but I suspect no owner of a solid glass hull ever has had to pay the small fortune needed to re-core it...

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Re: Would you buy an early 80's cored hull boat?

as mine was laid over on a breakwall in a notoriously wicked locale for a WEEK and didnt die nor hole (before po bought this boat it was laid over on breakwall in santa barbara by a po i met in la cruz de huanacaxtle.)
as mine is definitely SOLID fg,
i really dont see the point of having to recore any SOLID glass boat, as it is SOLID fg, hand laid, even
n. go figger. seems these older boats do have something to be proud of...lol SOLIDITY.

of course, those who dont know how to lay up a boat by hand may not realize solid means freeking solid.


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Re: Would you buy an early 80's cored hull boat?

I would like to know where Gozzard got their "independent labs studies" information, of course this is promoting their use with current building.

Gozzard Yachts Brokerage - Gozzard Yachts Brokerage.


Cant argue that repairing a cored hull would be more costly, harder to find someone to do the work correctly, and if compromised would pretty much devalue the boat beyond anything returnable .

Cheers,
Shawn

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1982 Tartan 37C

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Re: Would you buy an early 80's cored hull boat?

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I would like to know where Gozzard got their "independent labs studies" information, of course this is promoting their use with current building.

Gozzard Yachts Brokerage - Gozzard Yachts Brokerage.


.. .
I'm sure that Hinckley had wonderful things to say about their use of coring and Airex, maybe even a lot of the same words, but that all meant little to a friend owning a SW 42 surprised by the need to recore the hull. It was one thing to have to spend some $20 grand, but the real sting was losing use of the boat for a year...

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Re: Would you buy an early 80's cored hull boat?

I suspect that Gozzard is referring to cored hulls that retain the same total thickness of glass that a single skin version would have - the core is "extra" so to speak.

In that case there is no question the hull would be stronger. In the real world, most cored boats have reduced glass skin thickness to achieve similar strength to a comparable solid laminate but at reduced weight - the stiffness imparted by the core allows less glass to be used.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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