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post #1 of 4 Old 05-13-2005 Thread Starter
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One boat that has impressed me is the tayana 37 and vancouver 42. They seem well built. Any ideas about these?
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post #2 of 4 Old 05-13-2005
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I have a Ty37
This is a design from the mid 70s, somewhat top heavy with a slow roll period. The slow roll period (for me) is very non-tiring on passage; very "seakindly" boat with gentle motion. There are two ''versions'' with the MkII having a better arranged and better protected cockpit. These are all semi-custom interiors with the original owners choosing much of the interior layout - some very good for offshore, others rididculous with Pulman berths. No two interiors will be the same, so look at lots of Ty37s before you make any decision. The interior joinery is of very high quality of SOLID material - very little veneer. Hull construction is very solid but a bit ''overbuilt''; not the ''best'' quality but at the high end of good quality for that era. Osmotic blisters are rare and if present are only in the superficial gelcoat.
A PHRF @ 174 makes this a somewhat s-l-o-w boat by todays (frenetic/frantic) standards; but faster than comparable boats of such a similar design and age.
Problems with older poorly maintained boats: rotted bowsprit, chainplate bases and underlayment of teak decks; bulwarks leaks in older boats. Metal components are inferior: propshaft, rigging terminals and should be replaced. This boat has intermediate stays which should be removed and replaced with running backstays. Most have black iron fuel tanks which usually need to be replaced/repaired if not well maintained'' black iron is a good material if you keep the water out and regularly maintain underneath. Some have the fuel tanks in the bow - not a problem if you only take on the amount of fuel that you NEED. Many have ''exploding'' Barient winches which are downright dangerous. Winches, traveller, vang, etc. usually need to be replaced. Earlier boats will have spruce mast and booms .... very heavy and a high maintenance item. Exterior teak can be easily maintained with the usage of modern acrylic-urethane co-polymers (Honey Teak, Smith & Co. 5 yr. Clear, etc.) for once every 5-6 year strip and re-application ... and easy/brief yearly maintenance.

The full keel tracks like the boat was on rails but should be reshaped on the leading keel edge for increased speed and pointing ability. The Ty37 (like all cutters) is not an easy boat to sail to its maximum potential and one should have prior good experience in sail shaping and setting ... or the performance will be quite ''off''. For light wind areas the Ty37 definitely needs a feathering prop, a well faired bottom and ''good'' sails; a spinnaker is definitely needed for light winds downwind. Once a Ty37 is up to speed, it carries a LOT of momentum to punch through heavy chop and waves. The higher the wind speed, the bigger the smile. If well maintained these are "go anywhere'' boats. This is not a ''first time'' big boat. Expect to do a lot of upgrading and ''modernization'' of the systems. There is a very large owners group to help solve problems and share ideas.

The Ty42 is faster ... a very nice blue water boat.

Hope this helps.
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post #3 of 4 Old 05-13-2005
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Tayana

Sorry for hijacking this thread, but a question for Rich H--

Your comment on the unsafe "exploding" Barient winches got my attention as all the winches on my boat (1985 vintage) are Barients. I''ve never read or heard anything disparaging...care to elaborate?

Thanks, Mike
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post #4 of 4 Old 05-13-2005
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Tayana

Im referring to the Barients with the phenolic/plastic tops and the pushbutton center release for the drum. That pushbutton has a spring that relaxes over time and allows the drum to easily spin off the spindle when the winch is under high load. If you happen to be tailing line when the drum separates from the spindle the drum will travel along the tailed line (as a high energy gyro) and whack you real hard. Have several stitches in my face as a souvenier. The ID of these winches is the tell-tale plastic upper flange; then you look into the winch handle hole and if you dont see a torxhead or slotted screw top .... then you have a ''push-button'' release. Simply take them to the trash. God help you if these are mounted onto a mast when you''re hanging from a sling or bosuns chair when they let go.
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