Looking at a Hunter 25, need advice. - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 16 Old 06-10-2006 Thread Starter
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Looking at a Hunter 25, need advice.

I went out to a marina to look at a 1978 Hunter 25 and absolutely loved it. The boat seems to be in amazing condition but has two things I am not sure how to handle:

There is no engine - Can anyone provide any links or advice about what horsepower outboard would be the minimum on a boat like this?

There is a crack in the paint all the way around the top of the keel where the metal and fiberglass meet. It seems like this would be normal - but I would feel alot more at ease to have some way to back up that assumption.

Any advice on these issues or Hunter 25s in general would be very much appreciated.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 16 Old 06-10-2006
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Up to 10 HP

New Hunter 25s take an outboard up to 10 HP.
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post #3 of 16 Old 06-11-2006 Thread Starter
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Yah - I looked at that (trying to find out more information about the old Hunter 25s) but I guess it really didn't sink in. When I was looking at a few different boats the sales people / brokers were pushing me towards a 15hp outboard - which I suppose would be overkill given that the new ones only support up to 10hp.

Would it be reasonable to get away with a 6 hp? Or am I just going to be cursing myself when I am out on the water trying to get into the marina not being able to motor up against the wind?

I know I am coming across as a complete idiot but I really am finding myself up at a point where the little crappy foam 12 footers that I sailed around inland lakes (as apposed to Lake Michigan) to be a bit simpler. Just looking at the amount of rope and all that on a 25 footer leaves me a bit confused. I have signed up for classes, knowing I am a bit lost without instruction, so please accept my apologies for being a bit clueless.

Anyway - thanks for the response. Now that I am at least comfortable ruling out the 15hp engine in favor of the 10hp I am at least back down to (what my budget considers) a reasonable amount of cash to get the boat ready to go. Thanks

Anyone have any thoughts or experience on their own 25 footers? What kind of engine are you running and what would you think would be to poor an engine? Anyone have any comments on the cracks around the keel to fiberglass joint?
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post #4 of 16 Old 06-11-2006
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From another angle, consider that my boat (32ft) weighs a little over 11,000lbs and came with a 20hp inboard diesel, so 10hp is good on that Hunter. As for the crack, I suppose 28 years of water stress would cause it, or perhaps some time on the keel if grounded. Either way, I'd be looking for any seepage in the bilge, and would plan on stripping along the crack and re-sealing for preventive maintenance.
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post #5 of 16 Old 06-11-2006
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As important as horsepower is the design of the lower unit and the prop. A good 4 stroke 8 hp with the right prop for the boat will likely do the job for a boat of that size, though the 4 strokes are somewhat heavier. The 6 hp would probably do until you were forced to motor into a heavy headwind or large seas.

As for the "crack" in the paint at the hull/keel joint, this is not uncommon on boat of this vintage and simply requires careful inspection and/or as Seabreeze suggests resealing if there are any leaks or seepage.
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post #6 of 16 Old 06-12-2006
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My J/24 uses from a 4 to 6hp outboard, but it weighs around 3000lbs. You might check the weight on the hunter to make a comparison.

A crack around the keel on a j/24 is a big deal - in some cases the keels can waggle - which is bad. I was able to tighten mine up with the big bolts in the floor, then apply epoxy sealant to the crack and I now have no seepage.

You're probably going to want to learn what all those "ropes" do... but you might start by referring to them as lines. I'm a newbie myself, but the ones that raise the sails are halyards, and the ones for trimming are sheets.

I spent my first summer learning how to rig and launch my boat leaving little time for sailing. This season I'm getting more time on the water, and learning how to shape the sail for various conditions.

Tip: if you're able to keep your boat in the water - you're more likely to spend time sailing it.
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post #7 of 16 Old 06-13-2006
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Six horsepower would be plenty on an inland lake, but if you're going to sail Lake Michigan, I'd suggest an 8-10 horsepower with a shaft that is as long as you can find. The 8 should push the boat to hull speed (with power to spare) even against strong chop. When the conditions are such that 8-10 horsepower isn't enough (somewhere around 30 mph winds), the Hunter should probably be in it's slip. In those conditions, fifteen horsepower won't help.
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post #8 of 16 Old 06-13-2006
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I'd be more concerned about the crack "in the paint" where the keel meets the hull. I'd get out there with some sandpaper and make sure the keel/hull joint isn't compromised or you may buy a problem that costs a lot more than an engine to fix. Better yet, have a survey done.
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post #9 of 16 Old 06-13-2006
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Because of tariffs, you'll often find a 9.9hp motor rather than a 10hp motor. And that's plenty of motor for your boat--but you want a LONG SHAFT engine so the prop stays below the waterline as your boat hobbyhorses in rough water. Long shaft engines are less common. The prop should also be matched for a sailboat (slow than powerboats) so do a little asking when you shop, don't assume they are all the same.
Because the weight of the engine will be all the way at the end of the lever arm, you also will be better off with the lightest engine you can find. Don't fret over five pounds, but if there is a 20-40 pound difference, invest in the lighter engine if everything else (except the price) is the same.

Many boats have a slight crack between the hull and keel, just from production not being perfect and fairing not being perfect. If the keel bolts are solid, and there is no sign of damage, it probably is normal. Some brands like C&C are known the "the C&C smile" a perpetual crack at that point because they are built light for racing and the keels often wiggle just enough to keep that crack in the paint.
When in doubt...as others have said, get a survey. And consider asking the past owner to write on the bill of sale "no known groundings or known keel damage", or similar words. If he gets antsy about that...odds are he knows there was a problem.
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post #10 of 16 Old 06-13-2006
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Also, might want to have the surveyor double check the keel bolts, and the hull-keel join.

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