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post #11 of 21 Old 08-09-2006
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Steve: One thing you have to understand is that with Jeff you have the master of the baseless statement. Just go with the flow.
Now, Jeff and I butt heads over issues like this and I can only add personal experience to the mix. Fist of all Teak Decks look awesome and really make a boat look more expensive and more beautiful.
I also questioned Jeff's proclamation that they don't last as long....But then I thought about it like this: A cedar shingle roof on a house should last 25 years. Why wouldn't a teak deck last longer than 15 years? I would be interested in seeing some data on this.
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post #12 of 21 Old 08-09-2006
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When I was restoring the 1939 Stadel cutter that I owned in the 1970's I noted that the 5/4 Teak decks were roughly 3/8" thick. At the time, I thought that this boat had experienced exceptional wear to her deck.

It so happened shortly after this period, I was attending one of the first of Woodenboat Magazine's wooden boat shows. I had a list of items that I wanted to kick around with professionals and this was one of them. I spoke to quite a few professional wooden boat restorers at the show, and there was a clear cut consensus that the erosion rate on teak decks in the middle Atlantic states and south was approximately an 1/8" per decade. One of the restorers produced a older book on wooden boat building and maintenance in which this same number was repeated. Northern yards where boats were stored under tarps for the winter and where sun intensity was lower reported slower rates. Four and a half years ago when I posted this original post, I was apparently in a hurry and did not insert the word "approxiamately" in front of the 1/8" per foot.

Whether the number should be 1/8" or 3/32", perhaps is less relevant than the discussion that I have had in recent years with a couple yards that specialize in replacing teak decks and which report similar lifespans for thin set teak decks in the Mid-Atlantoc states and south.

Having lived with teak decks, they are a deal killer for me, but that is just my personal opinion, and nothing more.

Gotta go sailing,

Jeff
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post #13 of 21 Old 08-09-2006
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Surfesq-

A roof isn't generally walked on, or have things dragged over it, etc... A teak deck will not last as long as a cedar roof for those reasons, among others.

Also, the conditions a roof is under is generally a bit more benign than what happens to a teak deck. Salt water, ice, freezing rain, sand, mud, seaweed, chain dragging, ropes dragging, feet, dirty shoes, and dropped items are all things a deck is exposed to that a roof generally doesn't have to face.

BTW, a cedar shingle is rarely more than 3/8" in thickness.

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post #14 of 21 Old 08-09-2006
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It was just a thought....but they sure look nice.
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post #15 of 21 Old 08-10-2006
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the whole teak vs. non-teak is one of personal preference, and maint.issues.

I love teak, but I also do my own maint. I'm an oiler. No Cetol, Epiphanes, varnish, 14 coats, plus yearly sanding, and touch-up for me. A rag, a quart of oil and a kid just work out better for me.

I've seen more than my share of teak that hasn't been maintained and it looks like hell. Add in that on a deck, you've most likely got a gazillion holes screwing it down, leaves me conflicted. But I love the look of a teak deck. go figure.

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post #16 of 21 Old 08-10-2006
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IIRC, alot of the new teak decks are not screwed to the underlying deck structure, but glued...to avoid the gazillion holes to seal/fix/repair.

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post #17 of 21 Old 08-10-2006
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Following is a Nauticat brochure photo of how the 7/16" thick teak decks on my Nauticat probably looked when it left Finland almost 2 decades ago. Every plank was screwed & bunged to solid fiberglass, and grooved reveals caulked with a 2-part polysulphide sealant.



This is how they look now:




I recently cleaned the teak with an oxalic acid solution and lightly sanded some areas which had excessively raised grain. I also needed to recaulk a few gaps where the caulking became loose and tighten about 1/2 doz screws & reglue the bungs. But most of the planks measured a strong 3/8" or more. I only wish the color would stay this way without oiling - but it has already started to turn grey again.

Granted, the boat was stored indoors for 4-5 months each winter by the former owner, exposed the remaining time. If exposed outside for 12 months and abused, perhaps the deck would weather away to nothing when 3 decades old. But I love my teak decks, take care of them and can't see that happening during my custodianship.

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post #18 of 21 Old 08-10-2006
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TrueBlue,
You make my point. A blanket statement like "teak wears away 1/8" a decade" just can't be made because every situation is different. I can appreciate Jeff's clarification that he is talking about a rule of thumb for exposed decks in the Middle Altalntic states and south but even then it is only a rule of thumb and each boat needs to be evaluated individually. BTW, while I like the look of teak I don't think I would have a boat with complete teak decks. Especially one with a cored or plywood deck underneath and fastened with screws. That construction is just asking for trouble.
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post #19 of 21 Old 08-10-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveCox
TrueBlue,
. . . BTW, while I like the look of teak I don't think I would have a boat with complete teak decks. Especially one with a cored or plywood deck underneath and fastened with screws. That construction is just asking for trouble.
Especially boats constructed in Asia with teak decks - typically laid by cheap labor using inferior fasteners over poor grade coring or plywood. Asian boats give teak decks the worst reputation.

http://epole.tripod.com/sailinfool/id7.html

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post #20 of 21 Old 08-10-2006
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Jeff is simply expressing an opinion. I think teak looks great and is very comfortabale on bare feet. Hey quit picking on Asian Boats!
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