Atomic 4 replacement - SailNet Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 15 Old 01-06-2007 Thread Starter
Sea Slacker
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,789
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Atomic 4 replacement

This is an off-shoot of my other thread. C&C 35 MK1 was mentioned, and quite a few of them are for sale out there. All have Atomic 4 as an engine. Did anyone look into (or better yet - actually completed) repowering with diesel? What were the costs, issues, specific experiences? If you can recommend a place that did a good job (and did not leave you completely despondent) - even better.
brak is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 15 Old 01-07-2007
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,394
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 12
     
the costs far outweight the benefits IMO. Unless this is going to be the last boat you ever own.
I'm not going to get into the gas vs diesel thing here, just some numbers.

a new diesel will run you 7-10k. now add a new fuel tank, lines, a couple of racors and ou've added another 2-3k.

A rebuilt a-4 from moyer will run you less than 4500.00 less shipping.

We are not primarily on earth to see through one another, but to see one another through

Some people are like slinkies: not really good for anything... but you can't help laughing when you push them down the stairs
cardiacpaul is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 15 Old 01-07-2007
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
Atomic 4 replacement

Depends on how you plan to use the boat. If you want to go offshore you are better off with a fuel-injected diesel than a carbureted gasoline inboard. If you are staying coastal the A-4 is a lovely smooth running auxilary.
uniexpany is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 15 Old 01-07-2007 Thread Starter
Sea Slacker
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,789
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Well, thats what I was thinking. Besides potentially I could be looking at a rebuilt diesel as well. But then, as long as you don't do it yourself - there is probably a very significant cost to pay to a mechanic.

So far the biggest thing I've done is rebuilding Volvo diesel cooling system (I HATE them, really!) - that does not rise to level of real engine work, so I am not sure I am qualified to do actual replacement just yet
brak is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #5 of 15 Old 01-07-2007
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,394
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 12
     
unless you're familiar with the terms "prussian blue" and "plastiguage", can read a micrometer,have the inside micke & check the bore for out of round...(kinda like prunes, is .001 too few, or is .005 too many), know which end is up on a piston ring, have a machine shop that knows the difference between checking and milling off .003 I'd leave it for the pros.

We are not primarily on earth to see through one another, but to see one another through

Some people are like slinkies: not really good for anything... but you can't help laughing when you push them down the stairs
cardiacpaul is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #6 of 15 Old 01-07-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hampton, VA
Posts: 76
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 12
 
Beta has a great product for A4 replacement. Previou scomments are spot on though. If you plan to keep the boat for the next 20 years go for it, if not A4 is a great motor.
Regards,Red
Loewe is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #7 of 15 Old 01-07-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Beacon, New York
Posts: 652
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by uniexpany
Depends on how you plan to use the boat. If you want to go offshore you are better off with a fuel-injected diesel than a carbureted gasoline inboard. If you are staying coastal the A-4 is a lovely smooth running auxilary.
Why is that? Being offshore doesnít require an engine at all so how does it matter which you have and how the fuel gets into the cylinder canít make much of a difference can it?
Robert Gainer
Tartan34C is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #8 of 15 Old 01-07-2007
Member
 
georgellop's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Ft. Lauderdale
Posts: 49
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
Repowering a sailboat is an easy project as long as you can remove the old engine and drop the new one without having to disassemble them..

The main issues are going to be:

Engine brand/model and Reduction gear choice: Here you have to do your research and due diligence.

Once you have removed the old engine and presented the new one in its place, you will be able to tell what if any changes to the engine bed need to be made. Also the lenght of the shaft could be determined. If a new shaft is needed then haul out and replace the bearing (if showing wear) the shaft and the prop.

Once the new shaft is in position with the coupler installed, position the engine on its bed and align port/stbd, mark and bolt mounts. Stop the aligment work at this stage and install s/w, f.o. and exhaust hoses and the wiring harness/gauge panel. Lauch the boat, let it settle and complete the aligment of the engine/trani to the shaft coupler. Seatrial.

You can reuse your tank (flush it), tie the return to the vent hose.

All the details involved in steps above are all over your new engine owner's manual and the internet.

If you decide to go with a diesel engine then the choices will be a used engine, rebuilt engine or a new engine. The main reason people re-power is beacuse they have had enough of the problems i.e. lack of reliability.... with the cost of labor being what it is put your $ to the best use and get a new engine. i.e. 00000 hours, no problems, 100% reliable. Regardless, you will be having to deal with installation whether you choose a used/rebuilt or new engine.

...George.

George Llop
S/Y BANDOLERA
1958 41' PHILLIP RHODES BOUNTY II

BETAMARINE
DIESEL PROPULSION & GENERATORS
Mobile: (786) 443 5567
Fax: (786) 221 3986

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
georgellop is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #9 of 15 Old 01-07-2007
Member
 
JouvertSpirit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Panama City Beach, Florida
Posts: 86
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
I am in the process of repowering my Pearson 10M with a new Yanmar 3YM20. The old engine is a two cylinder Farymann. I plan to keep the original fuel tank (SS), fuel lines, Racor filter and raw water strainers, control levers and cables, shaft and prop. Will have to go to larger exhaust hose, and modify the stringer beds a little. Boat comes out of the water early next week and I expect to have it running within 7 days with the new engine. I know this is not the same as going from gas to diesel.

I'm taking before and after pictures and will keep the group posted on the progress. I know there will be unexpected problems that will have to be dealt with.

I debated for a while on using a dripless stuffing box but finally decided to go conventional.
JouvertSpirit is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #10 of 15 Old 01-07-2007 Thread Starter
Sea Slacker
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,789
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cardiacpaul
unless you're familiar with the terms "prussian blue" and "plastiguage", can read a micrometer,have the inside micke & check the bore for out of round...(kinda like prunes, is .001 too few, or is .005 too many), know which end is up on a piston ring, have a machine shop that knows the difference between checking and milling off .003 I'd leave it for the pros.
That was my feeling too I am not that skilled in engine dept. nor will I ever be, I know my limits.
brak is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Atomic Is No Bomb sailnaway Atomic 4 9 10-21-2011 12:43 PM
Looking for an instrument cover replacement Northbeach Gear & Maintenance 5 01-13-2007 01:30 AM
Motor mount replacement? bread316 Gear & Maintenance 4 11-07-2006 12:17 AM
Atomic 4 replacement mr.fixit Gear & Maintenance 4 06-16-2005 04:48 PM
Atomic 4 Woes Mark Matthews Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 10-03-2001 08:00 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome