Islander 33 1965 Yes or No - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 22 Old 08-23-2009
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Tim,
I have the photos and have tried to upload them unsuccessfully. This forum has the same format used by another to which I belong and I have never had any problems uploading to that forum. So I haven't a clue as to the problem, I thought at first it was file size so I reduced to low resolution (below 97KB for jpeg) and photo size and still no luck. PM me with an email address and I'll gladly send them along as well as some shots of other modifications I have made which make the 33 more of an open water sea boat.
Bests,
Wiley
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post #12 of 22 Old 09-15-2009
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Useless post 4

Wiley,
Unable to PM you until I have 5 posts. Utter nonsense, but there you go. Here's my 4th. The 5th coming soon, then I'll PM you with email.

Tim
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post #13 of 22 Old 09-15-2009
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Useless post 5

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post #14 of 22 Old 09-16-2009
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I had an Islander built in the 60's the rudder fell off, the steel holding it in place rusted I still have a hole in my big toe nail from where it fell on it about 6 months ago. 29'
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post #15 of 22 Old 09-17-2009
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Gee Jags, Sorry about your toe. However, I think you have the wrong thread. This thread is about Islander 33s.
And for the record: the rudder on 3I3s is hung off the keel. The rudder stock is bronze, as is the two piece gudgeon which holds the lower end.
Hope your toe mends well,
Wiley
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post #16 of 22 Old 09-17-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiley1 View Post
Gee Jags, Sorry about your toe. However, I think you have the wrong thread. This thread is about Islander 33s.
And for the record: the rudder on 3I3s is hung off the keel. The rudder stock is bronze, as is the two piece gudgeon which holds the lower end.
Hope your toe mends well,
Wiley
This one was hung off the keel too, and it had bronze on the bottom but for some reason there was stealing coming out from the inside composite material at the top whicc connect's with the steering mechanism that to me was a nono. You might want to check into it, see what the what? I was wondering if that was common on all Islanders? Guess not.
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post #17 of 22 Old 09-17-2009
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Jags,
Years ago I dropped my rudder and changed the packing gland at the top. Like many boats the Islander 33 came with either tiller or wheel steering. Mine is tiller steered. I told the yard where I hauled what I wanted to do and they set me on taller keel bocks than usual and placed the boat where I could dig a hole beneath the bottom of the rudder if necessary. It was. In the tiller steered version the rudder stock is supported at the bottom, at the gland, and where it goes thru the deck. I replaced the packing gland with a single piece of fiberglass tube the proper diameter for the shaft and glassed it in. Note: to allow the rudder to be removed there is now two fiberglass tubes, one that is glassed to both the hull and to the underside of the cockpit sole (forming a completely watertight structure) and a second unattached FG tube which is a close fit over the rudderstock. This second tube is removeable out the top to create clearance in order to remove the rudder in the future. The interstitial space is filled with silicone grease.

There was/is no steel or ferrous metal in any of the components of my rudder assembly. I cannot fathom why there would be in your vessel. That being said, at 40 plus years old most boats have been thru several different owners. And the skill and experience level of those owners is quite variable. Having worked around boats for many years I have seen some very strange "repairs" and would suspect someone earlier had "fixed" a problem.

Bests,
Wiley
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post #18 of 22 Old 09-20-2009
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67 Islander 33

Howdy,

I'm looking at a 1967 Islander 33. The boat seems to be in decent enough condition, mostly the normal stuff for a senior citizen, but the deck over the cabin flexes quite a bit, I think that all the plywood needs to be replaced and some ribs added. The owner started the repair by tearing down some of the wood. It sounds like this isn't a huge repair for these boats but enough to knock down the price quite a bit. The head has been removed but there is a new one ready to be put in. The sails look pretty good and the interior is in nice shape, in need of elbow grease and cleaning. I haven't had the boat pulled out and surveyed yet, so I'm not sure what the hull looks like, the owner says he thinks it is in pretty good shape. The deck and the hull need to be painted, as well. I like the boat, I have to admit it is ugly but charmingly so, like most things from the 60's. The owner is asking 7000 bucks, I was thinking about offering him 5000, dependent upon the results of a survey, until I found out about the extent of the work it needs and now I'm not sure if I even want to make an offer or make a very low offer, like 3 or 4000. The question is, what do you all think? This would be my first sailboat and I don't want to take on a lemon but I don't mind doing work, I actually enjoy it. I want to use it to sail around the Puget Sound and up into Canada and as a live aboard for myself and my daughter. Would a low offer be an insult or reasonable? Thanks for reading...
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post #19 of 22 Old 09-20-2009
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Interesting, many years ago while in NZ I installed a 6 inch port hole directly over the main cabin table. The deck on my '65 is over 1/2 inch solid glass and then on the bottom is a sheet of 1/2 inch mahogany faced plywood. This plywood is encapsulated in a layer of clear resin with a single layer of glass cloth. Obviously the cloth is transparent and the whole looks like several dozen coats of varnish had been applied. I am of the opinion that vacuum bagging had not been invented at that time so the ply was probably protected by a thin sheet of doorskin and heavily weighted to get it to conform to the curve of the deck. Yes, there are some small voids between the two due to trapped air but they are of small concern as the deck is heavily laid up. I suspect that when they were constructed they made their structural layup then laid in a heavy thickness of wet mat and then applied the plywood before it kicked off. There are also two post supports at the forward end of the cutout for the companionway slider hatch; one each side forming support for the deck at the end of the quarter berth on stbd side (1/2 bulkhead) and the 1/2 bulkhead separating the galley from the booth seating/dinette on the port side.

So is that the interior of the boat you are looking at? Are those posts still in place? Is the plywood overhead that you are speaking about encapsulated and part of the structure? or did someone somewhere along the way change/convert/replace the encapsulated one with some other due to damage (water intrusion or fire)? The main deck is wide (like over 9 ft wide and long something like 8 ft long) and there is only the slightest feeling of spring when one jumps heavily on mine. It's amazingly stiff considering the large basically flat area, actually.

Now if your overhead is not stiff enough you have lots of options. But it is not a small undertaking. Personally I would be loath to give up the over six ft headroom with a series of cross deck frames. I think I would (after removing all the bad plywood) rather vacuum bag a 1/2 inch sheet(s) of rigid foam and give it a couple layers of mat and cloth and get both stiffness and insulation. Then finish with a thin layer of doorskin (varnished) or other finish (textured gelcoat for ease of cleaning, vinyl headliner, whatever).

What is it worth? Good question. Lots of stuff you aren't describing: What does it have for an engine? If the original Atomic 4 then what condition is it in? If it has a newer replacement and it was cleanly installed then it is worth a bit more. How old is the rigging? Is it original? if so it needs replacing. Is it still the original alcohol stove or ? I'd be prone to low ball an offer and in this economy I wouldn't be surprised if it isn't accepted. Worst he can say is no and you can continue to negociate. Explain to the owner why you aren't offering more, rigging, engine, tanks, everything is 42 years old if original and so all pumps, thru hulls etc. are suspect until they are proven good and serviceable. And getting parts for a 42 year old alcohol stove won't be easy same for the winches (South Coast or upgraded to ?). You didn't say whether is was wheel or tiller steered; if tiller steered there is less to go wrong. I wasn't (still am not) impressed with the original "factory" wheel steering on these boats.

You are talking live aboard and these are nice live aboard boats but alot of the systems will get more use in such use and most likely many will need to be upgraded or repaired/gone thru. You mentioned Puget Sound, I'm located near PT and if the boat is on the Olympic side I might be able to give her a lookover (should you want).

Hope this helped,
Wiley
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post #20 of 22 Old 07-25-2010
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Islander 33

I worked for Islander in the 1970's and am very familiar with the 33. A friend of mine, Jack Ford, bought an old 33, completely rebuilt it and sailed it around the world. This was in 2004-2007. He singlehanded the boat and had no major problems with it. The 33, like all Islanders of that vintage, was a good boat structurally, but the rigging and systems need to be upgraded. One change that Jack made that vastly improved the sailing qualities of the boat was that he removed the old keel-hung rudder and installed a beefy spade rudder that was taken off a Davidson 44. It made the underbody of the boat look a lot like a Cal 40...Long (very long) fin keel with a spade rudder. Jack left from Long Beach, CA and returned to Long Beach about 3 years later. Prior to the Islander 33, Jack owned a beautiful cold molded Farr 52 called Zamazaan. We sailed that boat to a 3rd in class in the '87 Transpac. A few years later, when Chuck Weghorn owned the boat, we sailed it to a first in class in the '93 Cabo San Lucas race.
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