Jeff: Before I bid . . . T30 - SailNet Community

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Old 02-22-2002
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Jeff: Before I bid . . . T30

I''ve got a couple days left to put in a bid on this Tartan 30. It''s a ''77 and I''d put the BUC fair book at about $8500.00. The yanmar 2cyl. has about 10 hours on it, and looks new (it''s a 1991). A couple of questions. First, the keel bolts are schmoo on the top, or at least have appreciable oxidation growth. Ideally, in an ideal world, I''d like to back off the keel nuts and rebed the keel. It is, however, flush to the hull and doesn''t look problematic. Are these hulls cored? The decks are what: end grain balsa? I figgered on laminating plywood with west system into the deck around the stbd chainplates. There''s a chance that the bulkhead is salvageable, but I need to do some further checking. The bulkhead itself didn''t let go, the weld on the forward chainplate broke. Some west system and new laminate might cure the problem. The rest of the boat is mostly cleaning, patching, replacing, etc. Seems like a good deal, and, while I''m tired of playing with other people''s boats in the yard, this looks like a manageable project. No serious blisters, but some serious whacks below the waterline. The topsides look great, the decks not spongy (stbd chainplate excepted). She''s clearly been in a hurricane or two, and there seems to be, I''d say, a couple hundred pounds of lead from the keel replaced with West System. I just happen to have a couple hundred pounds of lead that I could strap into the bilge if someone thought that might be prudent. The intended use is racing/cruising the BVI''s. Comments?? Thanks. KW
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Old 02-22-2002
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Jeff: Before I bid . . . T30

I am not sure what to tell you about the Keel bolts. Keel bolts actually deteriorate where they pass through the fiberglass because of oxygen starvation. Surface rust is not much of an indicator either way.

I can''t recall if the Tartan 30''s did have cored hulls. At some point Tartan did start coring its boats but I am sort of think this predates that period. The easiest place to spot coring is at the transom where it meets the hull. Generally they will end the coring a few inches from the corner and you should see the taper. I have no idea what the deck coring would be. C&C, which had close ties to Tartan, was a pioneer in using foam coring in decks (more expensive and not quite as strong for the weight but superior longevity).

A marine ply core at the chainplates will reduce crushing of the deck but marine ply is a little rot prone and so all edges should be saturated first.

The three big issues are the chainplates (which may all be shot if the broken one was not from trauma), the "serious whacks below the waterline" and the missing lead.

I am not sure what you mean by some "serious whacks below the waterline". What kind of Whacks?

I am also not sure why you think that a" couple hundred pounds of lead from the keel was replaced with West System". That is not good news. What makes you think that happened?

Regards
Jeff

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Jeff: Before I bid . . . T30

A couple more questions:

This boat has good sails and a rig, Right?

I pulled the Tartan 30''s up on YachtWorls and I was surprised that there appears to be quite a few in really nice shape for well under $20K. (The last search that I had done most were well up in the 20''s) At $8600 if you need all new rigging and sails, and upholstery and electronics you are pretty much at or above the asking prices for these other boats.

Jeff

Jeff
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Jeff: Before I bid . . . T30

Keel: it doesn''t take much lead to make up 200#. A piece 18" x 6" x 6" will just about do it. The forward end of the keel looks like it was refaired and filled with west. There''s an inventory of usable sails onboard - a couple of mains, jib, 2 genoas - all "serviceable" but nothing to shout about. The "whacks" are long scrapes and repairs that don''t look that bad. One thumb-sized gouge that''s easily repaired. The $8,600.00 figure was my guesstimate at honest value. I wouldn''t pay that for it, but figure, before sails, I''ll have about that into it. I could sell the engine for $3,500 without batting an eye, and then truly have a $1,750.00 boat. Like I said, the topsides look great and the deck sound. I could launch it within a month of purchase and do the interior on the dock (yard''s $330/mo., ouch). It''s fixable. Just curious about whether one should rebed the keel or just skip it and go sailing.
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Jeff: Before I bid . . . T30

Oh yeah. Believe it or not, I could sell the engine, moor the boat out by false entrance off Jersey Bay next to the Mangrove Lagoon (idyllic, crystal clear water with eagle rays and all forms of juvenile fish abounding) and rent it for $400.00 a month. I just want a boat here. Bring down my Bristol. KW
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Jeff: Before I bid . . . T30

I am still missing something. Loosing 580 some odd cubic inches of lead is a lot of lead. What makes you think that much lead is missing? And where do you think it is missing from?

Also there is no way that I would sell the engine. That makes no sense at all. The boat has a replacement value replacement value way below your projected $8500 without an inboard engine because the next person will feel that this is project boat that has been cobled together. You are way ahead with dead engine that someone would at least expect to be able to rebuild than to sell it off.

Regarding the keel bolts, if there is no sign of leaking, I think I would take off and put back one nut at a time and see what you find. If it looks bad then pull the keel to check the bolts otherwise go sailing.

Regards


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Jeff: Before I bid . . . T30

All I was saying was the engine has 10 hours on it. It''s a ''91, but in mint condition, unused. Original oil is clean. The boat''s been on hard since ''92. My point was that even if I sold the engine for $3500, which it should be worth (getting things shipped down here is expensive), if I pay $5,500 for the shooting match, I''ve got $2,000 into the boat. It would make no sense to sell the engine, notwithstanding that Don Street doesn''t think I need one. The keel/West system thing is simply that I see that much area on the foward end of the keel and in other places, that seem to be solid West rather than lead. It might just be chewed, filled and faired. I was just wondering how much effect a 200# change in ballast might have. I do have lead available that came from an old ''62 Pearson daysailer that was converted to a little motor launch. My point with the $8600 amount is my estimate of current BUC value in it''s present condition. If I can get it for $3,000 less than that, groovy. What about these little flush through-hull nipples? Are they problematic to remove? How are they installed? I see no screws, nor backing blocks, but didn''t think to look for a ring nut on the interior. I don''t like it when I can''t mount a ball valve seated directly to the hull on a base. These things are just in-line valves screwed on. All of them. However, better than the gate valve on a hose and nipple I found on the raw water line in my Bristol when I bought it....thanks for all the help. Tell me anything you can think of about the T30s. I can make this thing float, run and sail fairly easily. The only thing that really concerns me is the mast base corrosion. It hasn''t settled, but generally looks like the dark side of the moon. Thanks again. KW
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Old 02-27-2002
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Jeff: Before I bid . . . T30

VIEXILE,

Don Street got rid of his engine because he kept tripping over it on the way to the fridge to get another ''greenie''.......
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Jeff: Before I bid . . . T30

kevin,
the adhesive used on the keel to hull joint is usually something benign, unless the po used 5200. the only problem as i remember it is that the forward most keel bolt only visible from the little hatch in the cabin sole next to the engine is almost impossible to get to. what is the hull number. my friend had a bad 1976 that he hat tartan take back and gave him a new 1977 as a swap in 1977. i just wanted to check that this is not his old defective boat.
eric
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Old 03-05-2002
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Jeff: Before I bid . . . T30

Just got back from Maine. I''d like to thank the northeast U.S. for the flu. Man. In my current sinus-induced stupor, I think I recall the hull number as 464 or something on that order. I believe the boat is a ''77..Kw
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