Just finished my 1st summer of sailing my new-to-me 1978 Seafarer 30. I don't claim to be an expert on the Seafarer, or any other boat. I only started sailing 2 years ago - Purchased a 1982 Seafarer 22, after taking a couple of sailing lessons!
Bought the Seafarer 22 off an old guy, who had been impressed with the solid hull contruction, and good sized rigging. From my limited experience, and comments of experienced friends, it sailed well, was stable, and not tender.
Note on the interior "wood" quality. YES - it is crap - vinyl (or something) backed, Faux-wood grained cheap looking stuff that makes up the head walls, side panels covering bottom of v-berth (water tank / holding tank, etc).
I bought my Seafarer 30 this spring, in fixer-upper condition, and probably ended up paying more to spruce up / improve things, than had I paid more money for one in better shape.
Regardless, the boat sails well, is very solid feeling, has sturdy wheel steering, skeg hung rudder (you do have to check the lower rudder attachment, as the pintle / gudgeon is known to wear / corrode/ break - should be proactive and make sure it's good).
Not sure about the shoal draft - mine draws 4'9', displaces 8600lbs (although the crane says 10,000, with gear and some fuel / water), ballast is 3400lbs lead encapuslated in the keel.
The mainsail is rather small (boom approx 9' 8" long), so most of the power comes from the headsail. I have 2 reef points on the main, and 4 headsails to use with my Shaefer Reefing RF.
Although the boat is not tender, I have reefed alot this summer, as my Girlfriend does NOT like the boat heeling excessively, or feeling overpowered by the jib.
I have had many other rail-near/in water days, alone, or with other friends.
The chainplates can be viewed / inspected easily and connect directly to a huge fiberglass "joint" that is all one piece molded with the hull. (behind the sliding glass cabinets).
Re: the hull strength. Mine were both hand-laid solid hulls, made up of alternate layers of mat /roving - they are not production chopper gun hulls.
When I stupidly modified by tandem trailer to be "float on", to avoid the $100 crane lift fee, I put the boat on the trailer (bear in mind - trailer completely submerged), only to haul it out, and notice that the keel was not touching the keel rest. The whole boat (displacment 2700lbs, ballast 1000lbs or so) was resteing on the two bunks, and there was zero indentation in the hull, from this weight!
Neither boat had any blisters, or concerns of any kind in the hull, and while my 30 has gelcoat crazing, the decks have no soft spots.
I like the galley / cabin layout alot, except for the fact that it has berths for 7, yet not much storage. We use one of the back q-berths for storage, and keep our sails in the v-berth. Great standing headroom (6 ft)
I built a trailer for my 30, and now have it stored indoors this winter. So I will be taking on several projects, to further improve her.
The yanmar worked fine, but will be rebuilt ths year, as it is 25 years old, and my brother is a mechanic. Will be replacing the standing rigging, as it is 29 years old, and won't cost more than approx $800 - 1000, for piece of mind.
If you would like any pictures, etc, let me know, and I can email you.
Darrell
if you don't have them already, here are the Seafarer forums / sites.
http://www.seafarer-research-center.com/index.html
http://list.sailnet.net/read/?forum=seafarer
http://bbs.trailersailor.com/forums/...ndex.cgi/#4338