Replaced Keel Bolts? A Red Flag? - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 15 Old 12-17-2007
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You might take a look at this article:

At the end of that article is a link to another similar article, worth reading.

I think the fact that it HAS been done on your prospective boat is actually a good thing. The fact that it NEEDED to be done is not. And I expect the reason it was necessary is due to Beneteau's general practice of using cast iron rather than lead for exernal keel ballast. If you want evidence, take a walk around a boatyard in winter and look at all the rust bleeding out of the 10-15 year old Beneteau keels, especially in and around the keel-to-hull joint.

If you accept this kind of engineering, you must also accept an increased maintenance burden, as apparently your owner has. Kudos to him/her. Many owners are blissfully unaware of the trouble festering beneath.
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post #12 of 15 Old 12-17-2007
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Beneteaus of that period sometimes had steel, rather than stainless steel keel bolts or keel bolt washers. The mix of steel and stainless steel below the waterline was never a good thing and some of Beneteaus of this era needed early keel bolt replacement. To me it sounds like an owner who was willing to spend money to maintain his boat properly. Of course the question that I have is "How did that owner know he needed keel bolt replacement?"

It is very unlikely that keel bolt replacement was made necessary by a hard grounding, but I would still follow up on RPerret's suggestion to check the bilge for repairs since the keel would be removed to make repairs exposing any existing keel bolt problems.

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post #13 of 15 Old 01-06-2008
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Keel bolts can be stainless steel or mild steel, the keels are typicaly cast lead or cast iron. Galvonic corrosion can be minimized by matching the potential as close as possible. The Cal 9.2 has iron keel and mild steel bolts that extend into pockets in the keel secured by washer and nut, same as in the bilge, washer and nut. I pulled my 1981 boat last year 2007, and the bolts did not exhibit any deteriation (fresh water boat). My research on keel bolts in salt water revealed a condition known as crevice corrosion where the stagnent water will allow the ions in salt water to become active and set up a potential galvionic cell that eats the stainless bolt creating pockets and crevices. Lead keels and stainless bolts are usualy fabricaated by placing J bolts into the keel while the lead is moltent. The bolts are protected by the use of sealants like 5200. The repair procedure can be to "sister" additional through bolts without dropping the keel. I found a contact through the Islander 36 site that has a business traveling around doing just this. His charges were around $2,000. I have his contact info listed on my Cal 9.2 web site, under keel bolt repairs. Other repair procedures can be done by dropping the keel and it is more co$tly and difficult. Best left to professionals.
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post #14 of 15 Old 01-06-2008
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Ask to see the original work order documents for the repair. They might state other things that are pertinent. You can also contact that repair facility and ask them questions, like why?
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post #15 of 15 Old 01-06-2008
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Did you ever find out why the keelboats were replaced? Or in fact, whether the keel bolts--as opposed to just the nuts on top of them--were all replaced?
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