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1984 Pearson 34

19K views 19 replies 11 participants last post by  eherlihy 
#1 ·
I'm new to Sailnet. I have a '72 Pearson 26' and have a line on a 1984 Pearson 34'. Anyone have any thoughts or experience with the 34?
 
#2 ·
I know you posted the same question on the Pearson email list, and you should get better answers there. Only thing to be aware of is a potential rudder issue with that boat. Check the links on Dan Pfeiffer's site about that. www.pearsoninfo.net. Check links for the 34.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I've sailed a 85 P-34 quite a bit through my sailing club. (The one in my avitar in fact) They were available with a swing or fin keel. They're sturdy, as are most Pearsons, but not flashy boats.

SM already pointed you to pearsoninfo.net (which is a great source of info). PM me if there is anything specific that I can answer. Overall I think that it's a nice boat.

Ed
 
#6 ·
BronxBoy64

I sent a response to your Pearson Email list query. Cliff note version: No direct experience, but almost bought one last summer. Think they are decent boats and decent performer crusier with fin keel. Engine could be a little bigger, but probably is okay.

Instead of P34, I went for a Pearson 10M because fewer dollars needed.

DrB
 
#8 ·
Pearson 10M

My wife and I think it is a great boat. We have one of the few tall rig versions so it performs a little better in light air compared to the standard rig. The P10M is a tad shorter LOA and Beam, and a little longer WL (Compared to the P34), making it a slightly faster boat. The P10M was designed as a club racer/cruiser. Traveler is in the cockpit on bridge deck, which is both good and bad. Good for controls right at helm, bad as it gets in the way going below deck during sailing.

Cockpit is about 10 inches shorter than P34 and the headroom is about a inch shorter, but even I, at 6' 6", I fit until mid salon, then I have to duck a little towards v-berth. The P10M has less "wood" below and a little less room, but the boat sails great and is a real pleasure to sail.

Seeing as I got mine for about $10 to 15K less for basically the same boat as the P34, albeit 4 to 5 years older, I think a 10M is a great buy.

DrB
 
#11 ·
How about that, me too!

I bought a 1984 Pearson 34 in June. I started with a P26 and still trying to sell the 1978 P30 (still love that boat)

But now it's time to figure out the P34. Winterizing will be the first hurdle. After that will be the alternator mount relocation kit on the M25, oil drain kit, rebed (replace) the 4 forward ports, look into something other than a bladder for a holding tank, troubleshoot leak in starboard water tank, refridgeration (anyone else without refridgeration? these things devour ice), anchor roller (an success stories??), and I'm considering optoins to make the mainsheet more accessible to the helmsman.

That's the big stuff aside from rebedding deck hardware.
 
#12 ·
Glad to hear from other P34 owners! My boat is on Lake Lanier north of Atlanta, Ga so I don't have to pull the boat out for the winter. Just a small space heater for the really cold months. The boat already has refridgeration and hot water. Need to redo or reseal the four aft ports\windows which are leaking a little. Interested in the anchor roller as you mentioned, but anchorages no Lanier are not too demanding. Just installed a new Bimini and frame and looking into a Dodger. Do you have a Dodger on your boat?
 
#13 ·
I am loking at a 1989 Pearson 34 mk 2. Does anybody have commments on the boat. At one time I owned a Pearson 31 mk2 which was a good looking boat with a nice interior and was a nice sailing boat; however, I beleive there were some systemic issues with the construction related to the hull deck joint allowing mosture. Any concerns like this for the later edition 34s?

thanks
 
#14 · (Edited)
The '89 Pearson 34 is a very different animal from the 83-86 Pearson 34.

I believe that the 34-2 came with a self tacking jib from the factory. This limited the jib choices, and you would loose a lot of fore deck space for the track. Every 34-2 that I looked at (I saw several) had the self tacking jib.

One structural difference is that the hull of the Pearson 34-2 is cored, both above and below the waterline. Pay VERY close attention to the hull exterior, looking for any signs of impact damage. It doesn't take much of an impact to allow water ingress to the core.

Here is a picture of two impacts to the hull of an '89 Pearson 34 -2 that I looked at:

I found clear indications of moisture starting from these subtle circles, which were 4" below the waterline, all the way down to the keel.

Personally, I like the interior layout with the separate shower stall, island berth and aft cabin (although the mirror backed liquor cabinet is a little over the top).
Here's the layout;


The deck construction, however is like that of most (all?) Pearsons; end grain balsa sandwich with FRP inner and outer layers. Stanchions had gaskets at their base, and the gaskets invariably failed after several years, leading to this;


Other than looking carefully at the interior / exterior, I would strongly suggest the purchase of a moisture meter if you are seriously interested in a Pearson 34-2.
 
#16 ·
I own a 1984 Pearson 34 in Marblehead, MA - she's a good solid boat - we've done a lot of upgrades - though I can't say the refregeration is really worthwhile...
That would be a Pearson 34, and not a 34-2. Different layout, and solid glass hull. IMHO, a better built boat than the 34-2. The 34-2's were only built from 1987-1991.
 
#17 ·
We have a lovely Pearson 34, 1984. She is our darling. We are getting her ready for sale. We have gone to a trawler being in our mid 70s, hoping to go into our late 80s!!! She is and has been a wonderful coastal cruiser and a day racer. Boat is located in Oriental, NC (the sailing capital of NC)
 
#19 ·
I have owned my 34 Pearson for 12 years. I am 68 years old and sail single handed 3 or 4 times a month year round often with small craft advisories in affect. Great, fast boat. I just broke the rudder shaft at the blade. Not sure whats next new or repair? I was able to remove it in the water and was surprised it weighs 140 lbs. with little or no water in it. Hoping for some input!
Thanks: RaggedyMan
 
#20 ·
I assume that you know of Foss Foam, who can build you a new rudder to OEM specifications.
 
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