What makes a good light air boat? - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 28 Old 10-09-2009
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I have also used this one to compare various boats, which might also help answer your original question. I think its been posted here before but scroll down to use the calculator. More info than you probably care to know. Have fun.

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post #22 of 28 Old 10-09-2009
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Originally Posted by AndrewMac View Post
Thanks for all the responses. Very helpful. Bubb2, while i know you were being a little tongue in cheek with your initial response, it was actually quite helpful. I find that I frequently get impatient in lighter air and do not let each adjustment take hold as you suggest. And JeffH's comment about the high drag a large genoa creates in the slot is not something I had previously been attuned to - always assumed that, in fact, bigger was better in those conditions. Jeff/Bubb2, I'm assuming that you mean winds that are 5 and below? I guess I'm asking at what point do you think the incremental lift of the genoa becomes accretive (ie greater than the incremental drag)? I'm sure there is no hard and fast answer, but wondering if there are metrics you would use as a general guide...thanks!

IN 5 or less a large genoa will curl. Looking more like a spinnaker than a head sail. You are trying to get as much airflow across the back side of the main as you can with the headsail. A headsail with curled leach, that is not going to happen. If you use a smaller head sail not as much curl will occur and thereby the slot opens up.

I not going to get into boat numbers because a well sailed slow boat will beat a poorly sailed fast boat every day.


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post #23 of 28 Old 10-09-2009 Thread Starter
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bubb2 - thanks for the input. Reading the different comments here, it seems that, if one were in 3 knots of wind with a 130 headsail on roller furling and noticed that the leech was curling, it may well make sense to take in some of the head sail in order to reduce drag in the slot and create better airflow across the back of the main.

Btw - I hope you don't misunderstand my questions to mean that I think a different boat will compensate for the (rather considerable) holes in my sailing skills! I am very much hoping to build those skills in order to have more fun in whatever I boat I find myself in.

Thanks again!
Andrew

reading some of the comments along
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post #24 of 28 Old 10-09-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewMac View Post
bubb2 - thanks for the input. Reading the different comments here, it seems that, if one were in 3 knots of wind with a 130 headsail on roller furling and noticed that the leech was curling, it may well make sense to take in some of the head sail in order to reduce drag in the slot and create better airflow across the back of the main.

Btw - I hope you don't misunderstand my questions to mean that I think a different boat will compensate for the (rather considerable) holes in my sailing skills! I am very much hoping to build those skills in order to have more fun in whatever I boat I find myself in.

Thanks again!
Andrew

reading some of the comments along
Andrew, I run a 110% jib on my boat. It does well in light air and does well in heavy air. It will out point a larger sail. For the in between days is what a Asymmetrical is for.

I am not trying to say boat numbers are not important. However, what you might give in light air performance may give you stability when it gets snotty.


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post #25 of 28 Old 10-10-2009
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What makes a good light air boat?

The answer is simple: The skipper & crew! Some boats seem to spring forward while other identical hulls appear to be anchored. Of course a clean bottom and a modern fin keel and loads of sail will all help.

Joe McCary,
Sailing on The Central Chesapeake Bay, West River, MD on my Catalina 27, Aelous II with my wife and friends.
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post #26 of 28 Old 10-13-2009
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One more boat that does well in Light Air

To the OP,

I know that you said that you didn't want to go over 32", but with a bunch of kids and wanting to do the occasional weekender, you will need the room.

Look at a Pearson 10M (33'). On paper it looks like a slow, fat boat. It's 33' long, has a 11' beam, displaces almost 12,500 lbs, skeg rudder, but...... the thing is pretty quick. If you get the tall rig (can find one) your NE-PHRF is around 135 AND you can get it for under $25K. The standard rig is 140ish as a PHRF. It's got pretty good creature comforts and is roomy below.

Yes, you can find a quicker boat in this length range, but all aorund it won't have everything the 10M has for the price.

Disclaimer - I own one (Tall Rig) and routinely kick ass on boats much larger than ours. I crew on J105, and while it is faster than the P10M in light air, it is spartan below, very low head room and tight even though it is 2 ft longer and the same beam. I imagine the J32 will be similar.

If you liked my advice/response, give me some rep points. If you didn't......well what do you expect, it was free.
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post #27 of 28 Old 10-13-2009
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Getting the crew weight to leeward hasn't been mentioned as a technique on any boat.

I like a J/30 for your purposes. They have lots of room ,bunks for 5 adults and the rig is easily handled. You can get a good one for less than 25k and have money left over for fresh sails and a DIY bottom job.
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post #28 of 28 Old 10-13-2009
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Once you start seeing numbers approaching 17 and above you are getting into a more performance oriented design
My Stiletto has a sail area to displacement (SA/D) of 48.86! If I fly the spinnaker it soars to 112.2!!!

How's that for a wild ride!

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