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  #21  
Old 11-24-2009
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Marti

Have the boat that you choose surveyed.

Before I bought my first boat I had it surveyed. The surveyer helped me understand the true condition of the boat. Money well spent.

Good Luck as you move forward.

Let us know which you choose.
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  #22  
Old 11-24-2009
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Quality and Beam

Okay. Everything duely noted.

What is Oil Canning?

I'll ask about the wenches and blocks. I will inspect in person but trying learn what I can now because there will be so many other things to think about when seeing the boat. Covering all the bases.

Calypso, the beam noted on the Hunter is just a guess , I asked. The specs I see say it's a hair over 10, so both within inches.

The Hunter guy is in a real rush, actually both are. That can be good or bad. One is moving to Japan, the other just wants to get the cash and quick. (I know sounds suspicious)
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  #23  
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Hunter or Contest? Contest. Here is a list I would look hard at if trying to pick up a blue water capable boat on a budget: Cal 2-30 and 34, Alberg 30 and 35, Cape Dorys, Allieds, Bayfields, Contessa 26, Pearson Triton, and Albin Vega 27. I guess you know that all boats in the 10K range will need a large investment in upgrades and refit unless you are one lucky fellow. I am refitting a Hallberg Rassy Rasmus 35 and will spend 6 times my purchase price to get it ready for cruising. Good luck.
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Old 11-24-2009
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Marti

Lizard has made a good point. The purchase price will be your smallest investment. I bought a 1980 Catalina and have spent twice what I paid for her and it aint over yet.
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  #25  
Old 11-24-2009
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I agree. Even a new boat requires additions. The kind of boats you're looking at will require repairs or replacements of wiring, plumbing, rigging, etc where necessary - and it will be necessary somewhere.
Brian
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  #26  
Old 11-24-2009
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I'll agree with the purchase part is the small part of it! I think I have 3-4x initial $22K purchase USD in new interior, ie hull and headliners, head it self, cushions, a few sails.....ok.....5 of them! That does NOT include much in elecetronics, other than an ST60 Raymarine wind, speed, depth set. At this time I do not see a reason to spend much more on GPS, radar or equal for what I do and go etc.......well, maybe a hand held or lower priced GPS......

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  #27  
Old 11-24-2009
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The trick is to do as much as possible yourself. There is nothing on a boat that requires a degree or long apprenticeship to do. If you are able to write big cheques, no problem. But if you're like most I know you learn to do it yourself. Today there is so much on the web it's easy to find many doing the same thing, complete with pictures and step by step instructions. Even if it's an engine problem I couldn't take care of myself I would remove the part myself and take it to the shop instead of paying $80 an hour for a mechanic to remove it. I am refitting/modifying my CS27 and so far have only had the experts do two things. Welding (new fuel tank and some custom brackets for cabin top clutches) and rebuilding the starter. All the wiring - every 12 volt wire including the entire engine harness was replaced by me after purchasing the proper crimpers needed to do it right. All woodwork and glasswork including 2 half bulkheads in the galley, all plumbing and all finish work I do myself. As Maine Sail says, if you do the work yourself the tools are almost free. In the spring I will be replacing seacocks and moving a few through hulls to better locations and redoing the rig and lifelines. I don't anticipate hiring anyone except the travel lift and powerwash. For the rig I'll get swages for the top end done (I don't have that tool ) and using mechanical fittings for the lower end. The more labor cost I save then more money is available for better equipment.
Brian
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Last edited by mitiempo; 11-24-2009 at 09:14 PM. Reason: correction
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  #28  
Old 11-24-2009
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Looking at the ebay photos of the Contest, I was pleasantly surprised to see little or no water intrusion damage. Ports, fittings, hatches, shrouds, etc. usually leak, especially when they've had more than 30 years to do so, and then leave traces in stains on the fiberglass or brightwork. Nothing like that is apparent. In contrast to that, the ports on the Hunter look like they'd crack when you tightened down the dogs, and leak unmercifully with every heavy dewfall. Get some paint for the Contest's deck & cabin ( the gray that's showing might be primer coat starting to show through) and you'll have a nice looking boat. The skeg-mounted rudder is a nice touch too.
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Old 11-24-2009
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Different view of Contest

While I usually agree with Jeffs assessments of boats and respect his obvious knowledge on most things regarding boats, I have to respectfully disaggree with his assessment of the Contest. While I don't doubt his own experience with his contest it is entirely the opposite of my own. I have owned a 1967 Contest 29 for many Years and have sailed it extensively and have been in some pretty heavy sea with it during this time. I have never had a problem with oilcanning. It is interesting that another boat that alot of people feel to be a well made boat, the Cal 2-29 which I also owned for several years and sailed quite a bit between the hawaian islands I found to be terrible in regards to oilcanning..even had the bulkheads come adrift during some nasty passages in the alanuihaha channel. In similar conditions my Contest 29 was stiff and solid. So perhaps it is just particular boats of the same type where an occasional one might not be asl well put together as its sister boats.? AT any rate, I found the Contest to be well built, and far ahead in terms of construction as other boast of her era. Conyplex had been a pioneer in fiberglass boat building and even back then used temperature controlled indoor curing facilities, and used a lot of structural stifeners in the hull rather than just heavy glass work. The hulls were built to Loyds A1 offshore standrds and my Contest ha a certic ficate attesting to that as well as a copy of the hull and deck plan I have of it with the Loyds A1 rating and signature. Also, the hulls and deck are totally uncored and of solid glass so no core rot/delamination issues. Instead, the hull and deck is stiffened by forms and a completely fully tabbed and bonded wood interior. They do use a liner for the overhead. The hull deck joint is very tough and never has leaked a drop or given me any issues. The deck has a molded in toe rail and the hull is actually inserted into the hollow on the underside of this toe rail which was filled with mishmash basically epoxy resin and fillerboding the two together, then the whole thing is glassed together on the inside with a heavy layup of glasss. The hull has a teak rub rail that is then riveted with monel rivets mechnically fastening the two together, this is actualll done before the interior glass is apllied on the joint so the rivets are completelt sealed on the inside. The exteriorhard ware such as the stanchions are installed with stainless backing plates and then these are also glassed over on the inside. Since it is not cored even if there are bedding leaks ths is not a big issue though of course like all exterior hardware one should maintain a good bedding on the hardware. The good part is that this is the driest boat I have ever owned as far as interior leaks from hardware, toerails, hull /deck jopints, etc go. The glass work also was all done very well, clean, smooth, without any sharppieces or edges. ALso , all the hardware was made of electroplolished stainless steel and it has held up beautifully. The interior joinery was very high quality mahogany and mohagany ply, as well as a solid teak sole. Granted, the blocks were made of tufnol, but at the time that was considered state of the art in that it was lite, but strong, and I still have most of the original stuff and it is stilll in excellent condition although due to upgrading I am sure alot of it could be replaced. Also, I have to agree with Jeffs opinion of the wiring... it was truly bad...zip cord!! and that is one thing that did have to be replaced. ALso, If the teak rubrail needs work it is alot of trouble to replace as the rivets have to be drilled out. I have to say all in all, my contest was one of the best boats I have owned, it sailed remarkably well, did great in heavy weather and had a beautiful,if somewhat small interior. I also have to point out that this is just my experience with this one particular model ie: the 1967 29' but I believe most of the others of this vintage were all builtg pretty much the same way. I still have it too but have now moved up and onto my Freedom 33 which I live aboard so I do have an interest in providing another view of these fine boats as I would like to sell it
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  #30  
Old 12-10-2009
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Just checked on Yachtworld and there is a nice looking Yankee 30 for around 9K. They are thought to be really good boats. Check it out.
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