Catalina 28

[Dfok]

I found a 1991 Catalina 28 for sale at a good price and like the boat quite a lot. It is a fat little thing, but I'm more interested in a sailing the Chesapeake in comfort than I am in racing.
The boat is clean and in good shape, but just a little worn - the surveyor reports the sails may need some restitching but I ought to get a couple seasons out of them. The bimini needs some stitching and replacement zippers.
There were two surface cracks in the port side bulkhead visible at the top of the bilge, but no moisture or indication of spreading; a minor fiberglass repair above the starboard rubrail, again not deep and no moisture on the meter there, and a 3 inch area of gel coat cracking deck, where the deck is embossed. No soft spot, no moisture there either.
The diesel is very clean, 300 hours on the meter and seems to run fine. Needs an oil change.
At the foot of the mast there is a bit of corrosion pitting that will need some attention but the surveyor said it did not look structural but should be looked at by a pro.
It was surveyed in the water, needs to be hauled for cleaning and paint, but still won't bust my budget.
I can do the fiberglass myself - should I be concerned about the corrosion on the mast?

[sailingdog]

IF the plate is stainless steel and the mast is aluminum, the easiest way to prevent further deterioration and corrosion of the mast is to add a plastic galvanic separation barrier between the two. A piece of plastic milk carton placed between the two would do the trick.

[Dfok]

I was wondering about the dissimilar metals - the milk carton trick sounds like a winner, now I have to figure out how to lift the mast. A lot will become clear after a couple days on the boat and the water, at least I hope so.
Thanks

[GeorgeB]

Dfok,
Do you recall what the sail/hull number of the boat you are looking at? I might be able to give you some pointers as I used to own a C28. In regards to your mast, the galvanic corrosion looks worse on the painted masts as it "bubbles" the paint. You can sand down to bare metal, making sure you get the crevis corrosion too. Then touch up with white paint. To isolate properly, you will need to pull the stick and put a pad of HMWHD(sp?) to isolate. anything else will chaffe through in time. What is driving the processes is a lttle water gets trapped in the mast base. When I did this repair I also drilled a 1/16 weep hole to drain the water. You may want to replace the SS rivits on the boom and mast at somepoint, using Lanocote or Teff-Gel to isolate them. Problem looks cosmetic at this point in time.

[Dfok]

Thanks, that is reassuring. I have the numbers, just not handy now but this boat is a 1991, early in the production of the 28. This boat is pretty clean, apparently well cared for over the years and won't take long to get into the water.
Now I'm getting excited....just a couple more weeks. Then isolation pads, rivets, sail sewing. Nothing quite as much fun as mucking ( or messing)
about in boats.