Bristol 24 - Great project or greater mistake

[DesivoDelta]

Hi Sailnet!

It's been a while since I posted to this site, but I have been reading the forums as often as possible. You all really do provide a wealth of knowledge and experience. Some time ago, I was interested in making a drastic move to live-aboard on an old dutch sailing barge. I came here for advice and received some great responses that helped temper a emotional & bad decision.

Times, situations and finances changed, but my desire to sail did not. This past weekend I went to view a 24ft Bristol with deck-joint separation on the port side. The ship broke free from it's mooring and went up against a concrete wall. the separation begins by the pulpit and extends about mid-ship. The flanges have been damaged to varying degrees and the port tab is sheared away from the deck. Everything else seems fine and just needs some cleaning (the deck is firm & no other delimitation) . I have video's of the walk through posted to a youtube channel (link in signature) I am dedicating to the restoration.

I think I'm going to work from the inside-out. First pull & stabilize the hull with the deck. Then glass the two together and finally, as a precaution, fill any voids with 5200. BTW, the Boat is FREE

Am I approaching this project the right way?

Thank you everyone

[DesivoDelta]

Here is Part 1 of my walk-around where I go over the outside of the boat.




This second video shows the condition of the interior. I feel confident in my ability to work hard toward getting her in the water next summer. Since I have no experience with glassing and the fact that it is almost September, my only concern is whether the season will allow for the needed work to be done.




If anyone has any thoughts, I would greatly appreciate it.

[billsull]

Hi Des,

I checked out your videos and it looks like a great project IF you're getting some decent sails and an engine in the deal. Without at least one of those important pieces, you may end up putting more $ into her than her market value, but that never stopped me before!

B24s are great boats IMHO and I have my own B24 project underway. Feel free to contact me with any questions as we will likely come across some of the same challenges. By the way, I'd rethink putting the batteries in the laz area- it can get very wet back there.

Good luck!

[DesivoDelta]

Thanks Bill!

I actually am not getting sail or an engine. I'll most likely buy both pre-owned in the spring. You're right about the battery, I was thinking out loud at the time.

She'll do well as a first boat. I have a repair budget of $500 set out and I've already anticipating doubling that by the time she hits the water.

What do you think about glassing from the interior and just fairing away the flanges without actually rebuilding them?

Best Regards and I hope your project goes well.

[billsull]

Hi Des,

In response to your question about the rail repair, it depends on what you are going to do with the standard rubrail that surrounds the boat. I believe that the rubrail profile below that Taco sells is the same one that we have on our boats:

http://tacomarine.com/ccp51/media/im...e/V11-0232.pdf

Note that the "insert" portion of the rubrail is designed to wrap around the outer hull - deck flange. If you grind that off, you'll have to come up with a new way to attach the rubrail or replace the entire rail with some other design. The other advantage of the outer flange is that it allows for mechanical fasteners to be used in addition to 5200 to join the hull and deck. In my Bristol, they only used staples as fasteners so I have been re-glassing and through-bolting the hull - deck joint in sections and then re-installing the rail.

[sailor50]

I personally would pass on this - way too much mold, water intrusion, deck delam.

Sorry to say, $1,000.00 or $3,000.00 isn't going to get this old gal back together again.

[mitiempo]

Your repair budget is a bit light. I think you will spend more than the boat is worth bringing it to sailaway condition. What is it worth? There is a Bristol 24 on Yachtworld with main, jib, genoa, storm jib, and a working outboard for 1500. I bet the owner would take less. 1970 Bristol Dinnete Model Sail Boat For Sale - www.yachtworld.com
By the time you buy some epoxy and glass your 500 will have a real dent in it. Add the used sails you need and a reasonable outboard and you will easily top 1500. And the rest of the boat needs some work as well.
I have owned boats since 1969 and have fixed or modified several over those years, from 18' to 35' so I know how useless a starting budget can be. And I know how one problem leads to another.
Yes, it can be brought back to good condition. But it will take longer and cost more than you believe. I'd quadruple your budget - or save up a bit and buy a boat you can sail without the work.

[SVLittlePrince]

Hey DD!

Still set on that Bristol? They're great boats, a little slow but they'll get you anywhere you want to go. I have a clip you might want to view of my own project this past spring. Do consider the cost-benefit- no sails and motor will be a difficult hurdle. Do not attempt to repair the joint from the interior. It will be VERY difficult to glass at those angles, make a mess and be inferior to glassing over the outside. Make your boat strong. Grind off the flange in that area and back each side 4-6 inches. Use a full schedule of glass and shoebox it over. Every boat-builder would prefer to build this way if the added labor wasn't so great over a separatly attached deck and the final cosmetics are tricky. Use a fairing strip to mold on and re-create the flange as a seperate step- its just to hold the rub-rail. Use polyester, not epoxy. Your boat will be dry, and BETTER than new. If you really want this boat don't let the "SBL's"(from video) stop you! Even if it dosn't seem to make economic sense you'll save a worthy vessel from the scrappers dock.

Brian (above) does have a point though- do you want to work or sail?

[DesivoDelta]

Bill, Thanks for the link. I saved the PDF and I'll keep loo into those rub rails later in the fall. The current rub rail seemed usable and I may just salvage it to save project costs.

Sailor 50, I echod your exact thoughts when I first when into the cabin. I didn't find any spongy spots on the deck and I hopped and hit the entire are with a rubber hammer. As far as the mold go.. A good mask, gloves, eye wear generous cleaning chouls be all I need to take care of it. At the hardware stores they sell those buckets silica that absorb moisture. I'll seal off the boat as best I can and Let her interior dry out for a week.

Miti, My budget does seem light. A better idea would be do put money aside and and just buy a $3-5K sail boat in the spring. The way I see it, I can buy a $3K boat, put another 3K to get her up to speed.... That's $6K. With this boat, even if I spend $3K to put her in the water, I'll still have more in the pocket for sailing and cruising. I'll buy/trade/forage for sails, even if they are only good for a season or two. Finding a cheap and serviceable engine will be more challenging, but there are always opportunities.

I like your ideas LittlePrince. I may just grind the broken flanges down smooth, then glass over the area 4-6 inches above and below for a good hold. Send me the link to your vid, I'll take a look, thank you.

BTW, I found bi-axial glass cloth at LOWES (NOT HOME DEPOT). It's the same brand that west marine carries. It costs $13 for 9 square feet. I think it's a good deal. I figure two of those packs and the West System Resins, and I'll be in business to start putting her back together.

I feel that there is a real opportunity here.

Thank you all. All you advise has been awesome.

[Siamese]

The Bristol 24 was a well built boat. I considered purchasing one many years ago. I share the concerns others have voiced, and another concern that may not have been mentioned.

The Bristol, by my recollection, was a fiberglass hull with a wooden boat built inside of it. In other words, I don't think there was any kind of a fiberglass hull liner. So, if the wood is compromised, so is the structural integrity of the vessel. I would be very concerned that all the wood, where it meets the hull particularly, is rot free. Very rot free. I'd also be concerned about the pounding that the boat took to its rub rail having been transferred to the internal wood structure and weakening it. Definitely look for any "tabbing" (bulkheads loose from the hull).

The plywood that makes up the interior forms several "boxes", such as the dinette structure, the v-berth structure, the quarter berth, and so on. These boxes aren't just furniture. They're also structural. Did the manufacturer provide adequate ventilation to BOTH sides of every piece of plywood, so as to avoid rot? Has there ever been standing water in the boat? If so, you would need to proceed VERY cautiously.

If you find the wood to be absolutely tip-top, you might want to proceed. No doubt, your repair allowance of $500.00 is entirely unrealistic.

The fact that it uses an outboard is in its favor. Your engine costs really can't exceed the cost of a good used 10 horse outboard.

That this boat is free makes it a temptation, but by no means an obvious bargain...which you're obviously aware of, or you wouldn't be posting here.

Anyway, see for yourself if you can confirm the construction. See if you find wood cabin sole, etc., with NO internal fiberglass support as is the modern method.

And, you're probably aware that when you take possession, you also take possession of the storage fees. If the boat turns out to be a bust, the fees will live on until you find a "buyer".

I'd also be concerned that you don't have experience in fiberglass repair. Even assuming you're smart, and that fiberglass is a reasonably friendly material to work with, you could find yourself knee deep in a process that's new to you. I wouldn't discount the problems that could present.

Much caution.