Looking at a Pearson 30 - SailNet Community
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-29-2011 Thread Starter
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Looking at a Pearson 30

I am looking hard at a 1975 Pearson 30 It seems to be in good shape for its age but has a Atomic 4
Do I really need to worry about it and is there anything in particular I need to check? Other than normal stuff?
Thank you in advance for the help

Last edited by PaThomas123; 03-29-2011 at 08:18 AM.
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-29-2011
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I'll let someone with more experience with the A4 take this one, as my P30 had a diesel, but in general the P30 is a great boat, fun to sail! The A4 alone shouldn't be reason to walk away, as long as it hasn't been too neglected. My impression is that parts are available and they're not too difficult to service.

Good luck!

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post #3 of 9 Old 03-29-2011
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Atomic 4's a good engine.

Last edited by Siamese; 03-29-2011 at 08:28 AM.
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-29-2011
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With the POs permission, get a mechanic-surveyor to remove one exhaust to manifold to engine block mounting bolt and with a 'probe' go into the bore of bolt hole and count how many threads are remaining. If 4 or more threads remain the engine hasnt rotted away to the point where it can be rebuilt if necessary, less than 4 - the engine is 'shot' due to internal corrosion.

A 'key' specific item when surveying a P30. If the door hardware on the entryway into the head does not 'line-up' when the door is closed, the door does not close easily and without binding ... then look at the compression post butt end down in the bilge for ROT. The butt end of the compression post will be covered with 'tabbing' but the rot forms inside the tabbing. The compression post supports the bulkhead, not the mast base; the mast base is supported by the bulkhead in its 'flange'. When the boat was built Pearson took a thin wooden wedge and 'drove it home' under the compression post and covered it and the post butt with FRG tabbing ... the wedge is the first to go with 'rot'.
P30s are notorious for having soggy deck core from leaks through the stancheon bases - a nasty and sometimes expensive repair job as the top layer of deck FRG is 'extremely thin'. Look for 'spider cracks' eminating from the stancheon bases.

Other than that the P30 is very good 'sailing boat', and is still actively raced in many areas.
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post #5 of 9 Old 03-29-2011 Thread Starter
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Rich
Thank you for that information. That is what I am looking for
I really appreciate it
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-29-2011
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Soggy core's are definitely a threat to Pearson's.. I had two Pearsons surveyed that i had to pass on, and then passed on several others due to soggy cores on the decking after figuring out how to determine it myself.. I finally gave up looking for a Pearsons and found a nice solid Catalina 30.

typical failure points on these boats I've found to be at the toe rails and stanchions..

there is a lot of info on sailnet and other places on the net that cover the detection and dealing with wet cores as well as delamination..
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-29-2011
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Also, P30 hulls are quite 'floppy' and if not blocked correctly will develop 'weird' hull deflections when on jackstands. Such deflections usually can be ignored. The P30 must NEVER have any blocking under the aft bottom section of the keel ... or such 'deflections' will appear, all blocking under the keel of a P30 MUST be forward of area where the aft keel meets with the hull bottom and the jackstands MUST be against the interior bulkheads. The P30 should be additionally supported with additional vee-poppit jackstands at the bow and between the prop and the rudder.
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-29-2011
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They are great strong old solid boats, good sailors and to be had within a reasonable price. As with any old boat a survey (professional) is recommended especially if the asking price is more than $15K. RichH mentioned the obvious things. I agree that the A4 is a great old engine easy to work on(I changed a head gasket in 2-3 hours last year) Moyer Marine has all the parts you might need for maintenance and or repair. Saltwater is always harder on a engine cooling(system) than regular H2O. So keep that in mind too.
Good luck in striking a deal sailing is less than 40 days away here "Up North"

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I want to live and sail forever, so far so good[/SIGPIC]

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post #9 of 9 Old 03-30-2011
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Most A4s are raw water cooled. Good chance it will need work or rebuild if it hasn't been maintained. If in good shape, consider adding a fresh water cooling kit.

The P30 rudder bearings were notorious for wearing out quickly. Check if there is excessive play by trying of move the bottom of the rudder back and forth. Replacing the lower one requires dropping the rudder.
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