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Old 09-10-2011
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Seidalmann 25 project

Hello All. Finally got situated in my new home in SC. Just transferred here from CA.

It was a good deal for me. I traded a piece of furniture for the 25' Seidalmann. From what I found online, it is a love it or hate it boat. It needs some work. It seems like a lot but I do not believe it is as much as it seems. The PO gutted it, put in all new marine plywood. It needs glassed over. I am not sure how to do this. But the floors and walls are new. he rebuilt the Yanmar inboard, and included a 35 foot sailboat trailer. The rudder needs rebuilt, it needs bottom paint, the interior pieces need replaced. It came with a bag of sails. Not sure which ones but the PO said it was a full set. The bag is marked Seidalmann 25 sails. Looks to be original. It also needs a prop shaft. The PO rebuilt the motor controller and needs to be reinstalled.

All total so far it cost me a kitchen island that was to big to fit in my new house, $60 in fuel, and 4 hours of my time. I pulled it with my 26 ft uhaul. I bought one instead of renting when I moved here from CA.

Will post pics soon. I have to take some. I plan to sell the Yanmar and buy an outboard. I figure it should take 4-6 months to get ready for the water. If I wait to rebuild the interior I can have it in the water in about 6 weeks.


All the best;

Bill
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Old 09-10-2011
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You need to work out and orderly plan and budget As it's gonna cost more than you think in material and time

You need for example to ensure the decks are NOT wet and rotted

Parts of the interior bulkheads are nessary for the structure integrerlty of the hull and on many boats hold the chain plates which hold up the mast

You need to be sure you have a compleat mast and boom as it's the most costly part of the boat to replace


I could write a book but there are already better ones out there by Calder and Casey
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If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
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Old 09-10-2011
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Im working with a $4,000 DIY budget. Mast and boom are complete. I saw some of the other parts of the bulkheads that are glassed in. I can do that kind of work. There are no visible stress cracks near the mast step.

The biggest challenge I think will be rebuilding the entire interior. I have 3 original sales brochures that show overall dimensions but not dimensions of each piece in the living area, ie how high and how wide the berths are, size of the eating area etc.

Bill
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Old 09-10-2011
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dude, if you have a clean platform to build on, make it custom man. make it cater towards you. why copy the original?
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Old 09-10-2011
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There aren't too many options with that size interior. Basically 4 bunk flats, a small galley, and a head partition.
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Old 09-10-2011
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but you could do it how you wanted
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Old 09-10-2011
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You might consider forgoing the traditional forward v-berth arrangement and using the area forward of the main bulkhead for large head/storage space (a la Carl Alberg's interior design for the Cape Dory 25D). The v-berths on a boat this size are almost always too small for adults anyway.
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Old 09-11-2011
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Im leaning towards leaving it bare. I would like to be able to cook on it so I may get a coleman camping stove. I would probably put a porta potty in the forward v-berth. Also planning to install an outboard instead of putting the inboard back in. I would use that space to put an extra fresh water holding tank.

Bill
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Old 09-11-2011
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Here is a link for pics.

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com...p?albumid=2073

Bill
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Old 09-11-2011
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Having lived through quite a few of these project boats either of my own or riding shotgun, I can tell you that a boat like a Seidelmann 25 with no interior, a bad rudder, original and therefore probably blown out sails, and a dubious engine starts out with a negative value, meaning it will take more to put it in shape than it will be worth when you are done. These boats in good cosmetic, with a working outboard engine, and in sailable condition typically have a actual sale value less than $5,500 and are hard boats to sell since they well known to sail so poorly in anything other than their ideal conditions. And when you talk about taking an inboard version and making it an outboard, and you talk about a non-factory interior, you have further reduced its inherent market value.

By the time you price the costs of materials for new upholstery, a minimal electrical system, an operational used outboard, beefing up the transom to add an outboard bracket, the materials for the interior components, the fiberglass and epoxy resin to rebuild the rudder and glass in the components, plus any aesthetic issues that you chose to tackle, you will easily blow your $4,000 budget and will probably exceed it several times over.

I would suggest that at the beginning of this project, you need to define what it is that you want to accomplish with this boat. If you plan to sell the boat at some point, then the closer you come to the original design and a professional job of it, the less money you will lose when you sell her.

If you like working on boats and expect to keep the boat for a long time, then you can decide to do whatever you want, assuming it works with the naval architecture of the boat (i.e. does not change weight distribution or reduce the structural integrity of the boat).

As you plan the project, you need to remember that boats of this era typically used their interior components as part of the structure. Bunk risers and flats, case work and shelves typically were used to reduce panel dimensions and dirstribute loads. Before you decide to leave things out you need to try to understand what was there and how it functioned structurally.

Lastly, set priorities and make a time line. Certain tasks need to be done before others and so should be considered as a part of your timeline.

Good luck,
Jeff
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