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  #11  
Old 12-13-2011
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David

The list makes sense but if the work is not hired out nowhere near 10k.

A quick check at Jamestown Dist shows rigging wire (3/16"), turnbuckles, and mechanical fittings for both lower and upper comes to about $1400. Chainplates need inspecting and possible replacement - figure $500. Running rigging - 3/8" Sta-Set at 1.12/ft - say 400' for $448. Autohelm about $500. Anchor rode - 1/2" 3 strand line .98/ft so $450 gets a main rode and a spare. Anchors are available used as are sails. That is $3300 plus used anchors, sails, and some yard time. If any of the above should be in a larger size add a few dollars. Still well under 10k.

Now if the op has to pay someone to do much of this it is a different story.
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Last edited by mitiempo; 12-13-2011 at 06:52 PM.
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  #12  
Old 12-13-2011
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I would say that finding a boat on that budget is totally doable and I say this from experience. I've done it twice. My first boat was an S2 9.2 and cost me roughly ~$14k including repairs and refitting a lot of the boat. My second was an Ericson 29 at about the same cost. Keep in mind that I did ALL of the work myself. It was hard but rewarding.

Find a good boat with a solid reputation and foundation. Do the research and only consider boats that have been well cared for. You will pay for other peoples mistakes. And lastly, look at a lot of boats! This will give you an idea of what you want or don' want in your boat.

Good luck in your search and if nothing else, you will learn a lot.
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  #13  
Old 12-13-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
David

The list makes sense but if the work is not hired out nowhere near 10k.

A quick check at Jamestown Dist shows rigging wire (3/16"), turnbuckles, and mechanical fittings for both lower and upper comes to about $1400. Chainplates need inspecting and possible replacement - figure $500. Running rigging - 3/8" Sta-Set at 1.12/ft - say 400' for $448. Autohelm about $500. Anchor rode - 1/2" 3 strand line .98/ft so $450 gets a main rode and a spare. Anchors are available used as are sails. That is $3300 plus used anchors, sails, and some yard time. If any of the above should be in a larger size add a few dollars. Still well under 10k.

Now if the op has to pay someone to do much of this it is a different story.
So using your numbers with just a little rounding to make adding easier:
Chain plates: 500, Standing Rig: 1500, Running 500, Anchor setup: 700, Sails: 1000, elect: 500 and we are already at 4,700.
We still may need to deal with: Engine, Reefing, thruhulls, hoses, rudder, dock lines and that's just for the boat. Oh and a cheap boat will almost certainly need a bottom job with barrier coat and paint figure $300. And then there is sandpaper and tools if he doesn't have everything already which is likely based the OP question.
Now we need to add charts, life jackets, foul weather gear, gloves, boots and GPS even if it is a hand-held. What about binoculars, hand-bearing compass, extra fuel containers, extra water containers.
Now you still have to provision the boat food etc.
Don't forget a dinghy and unless you like rowing a whole lot a motor.
All of this is not going to happen overnight. We have yard charges for at least a year and that could be anything from 2,000 to 5,000 depending on where he is. And insurance and taxes not too much usually maybe $500. Might as well add in TowBoat insurance while you are learning: $100

Even if you buy everything used and discounted you are still trading time for money. It takes longer to find deals than to buy retail. And some deals typically end up costing more than you think they would especially for the inexperienced.

Anything wrong with my numbers?

The thing that beginners get wrong is not the numbers. Anyone can look up the price of 100 feet of rode. What they get wrong is the number of numbers.
Ever go a supermarket and fill up 4 of those mini bags they have now and not buy anything more that 3 bucks and be shocked that the total is over a hundred dollars.

Last edited by davidpm; 12-13-2011 at 10:20 PM.
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  #14  
Old 12-13-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjmcfall View Post
I would say that finding a boat on that budget is totally doable and I say this from experience. I've done it twice. My first boat was an S2 9.2 and cost me roughly ~$14k including repairs and refitting a lot of the boat. My second was an Ericson 29 at about the same cost. Keep in mind that I did ALL of the work myself. It was hard but rewarding.

Find a good boat with a solid reputation and foundation. Do the research and only consider boats that have been well cared for. You will pay for other peoples mistakes. And lastly, look at a lot of boats! This will give you an idea of what you want or don' want in your boat.

Good luck in your search and if nothing else, you will learn a lot.
How long did it take?
Did you bring them up to condition where you would be comfortable taking them offshore.
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Old 12-13-2011
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I just sold a well cared for 30 ft boat of reputable manufacture, for under 10K that had newer standing rigging, running rigging, roller furling and usable sails and spares. Also, the engine ran great and it came with a pilot dinghy.

The sailboat market is in the toilet right now. Many lower priced boats are going for 50% 60% of their "book value" or "list price".

Of coarse there will be weekly trips to the chandlery that are foolishly expensive. But somehow those never seem to end no matter how long you own the boat
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  #16  
Old 12-13-2011
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If the budget is limited at X and he spends a third for the boat he just has to prioritize. Barrier coat is out - slap a coat of bottom paint on and after checking the through hulls its good to go. Everything can be bought used except rigging related items. Engine - if it runs well just buy spare filters, belts, and an impeller.
Engine for dinghy? Rowing is healthy. Yard charges for a year? Except for checking the rudder, prop, cutlass, and through hulls there is only bottom paint. What are the other 11 months for?

Good thing you weren't around in Columbus' time - he would have stayed home.
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  #17  
Old 12-14-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
David

If the budget is limited at X and he spends a third for the boat he just has to prioritize. Barrier coat is out - slap a coat of bottom paint on and after checking the through hulls its good to go. Everything can be bought used except rigging related items. Engine - if it runs well just buy spare filters, belts, and an impeller.
Engine for dinghy? Rowing is healthy. Yard charges for a year? Except for checking the rudder, prop, cutlass, and through hulls there is only bottom paint. What are the other 11 months for?

Good thing you weren't around in Columbus' time - he would have stayed home.
Your right I forgot about:
Engine spares, cutlass bearing, Prop
Prop that reminds me, wetsuit and goggles to dive on the prop.

We all have read many stories of folks who buy and old boat, fill up the tanks and head for open water. For some reason either a chain plate pulls out or the rudder falls off or the wind gets scary and someone wants off the boat.

I figure it this way. If I can scare this fellow off this idea by bringing up stuff he didn't think of and he decides to get more experience first I probably saved the Coast Guard a few thousand.
If he is determined to go anyway maybe he will research a few of the things I've mentioned and actually make it. If he really has a lot more experience than he is letting on then that changes the story.


To bad most of these folks don't come back on the forum and say what happened. I hope they didn't all get their boat take off and drown.

I had a guy put on offer on a 36' Morgan then change is mind at the last minute and bought a motorcycle after I told him what the carrying costs were going to be on the boat.

So your right I'm probably the problem
Course if I retire and become a yacht broker my story will change.

Last edited by davidpm; 12-14-2011 at 12:28 AM.
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  #18  
Old 12-14-2011
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Bayfield 29
Freedom 28

Both are well laid out, shoal draft, diesel powered, decent examples available for under $20K.
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  #19  
Old 12-14-2011
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  #20  
Old 12-14-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidpm View Post
Would everyone agree that for starters any 30 plus year old boat that was going to be used the way the OP plans should have the following done if it has not been done in the last 5 years and good evidence that it was done right.
1. Drop rudder and inspect and or replace bearings and all linkage.
2. Replace chain plates
3. Replace standing rigging
4. Replace running rigging
5. Check ground tackle and get spare
6. Check sails and get spares
7. Check electrical and make sure lights, pump work.
8. Autohelm

That sounds like 10k minimum assuming some of the above is OK and some needs doing.
The key phrase there is "If it has not been done in the last 5 years" If it hasn't, then that should be accounted for in the price of the boat.

This is where a GOOD surveyor is worth his weight in gold.

In any event, any boat that needs everything replaced is likely not a candidate for the OP anyway.

This is where an argument could be made for the purchase of a freshwater boat. A clapped-out, bearded hull Oday 32, for example, might fetch 12K in Florida. The same boat on Lake Michigan or Lake Erie might fetch $15K. even figuring in the cost/time to transport, the fact that the freshwater boat will be in arguably better shape with no saltwater exposure and half the in-water time could make it the cheaper boat. Sails, rigging, rudder, will have half the cycles and sun exposure of a saltwater boat, and the bottom will likely be in much better shape.


There are lots of $15-20K boats out there that will satisfy the OP that don't need $10K worth of work.

The problems arise when one buys a $35K boat for $20 K. If it sounds too cheap...it is.
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