I am always concerned about not being able to see the inside of the hull. I have a pal who is a Bristol Bay fisherman with a beautiful alu fish boat. He says he has to rip out his foam every three years and replace it because it gets soaked. Not sure if "soaked" is the word he used. But he says it is an awful job and must be done. I know steel boats can rust from the inside out. Had a friend with a beautiful Dutch built steel boat. He had rust problems from the inside out. I'd like to be able to see what the inside of my hull skin was doing.
Care to educate me when you are done with the laundry Brent. I would would be sincerely interested in your view on this.
I like my laundry room. I can cook, clean, watch footy on the telly and all the while be doing my laundry. I do separate the whites. I'm a whizz at laundry. I don't even let my wife do it. I'm a laundry Nazi.
A classic case of "projecting":
"The terrible, nagging fear that someone, somewhere, just might be having a good time"
I hope that everyone is having a good time.
Most of the Foulkes and Fehr boats built here had zero paint inside, and were foamed over mill scale. ( "Professionally built boats")
They have had major rust problems under the foam, and many have had plate replaced . I have even seen bare steel on them on the inside,where there a was no foam, flaking thick rust.
I recently worked on a boat for a Coast Guard guy, which was built in the 80's . She was sandblasted inside, and given a coat of cold galvanizing inside ( Interzinc)
She was in remarkably good condition under the zinc. So even that little protection made a huge difference. If you put several coats of epoxy tar on sandblasted or wheelabraded and zinc primed steel ,you wont have a problem in a lifetime. Sprayfoam is no protection.
My boat is 29 yeas o,and anywhere I have cut a hole thru it for a vent ,thru hull or radio coax , the steel and epoxy under it has been in perfect condition.
Foam will only soak up water if it is foamed right down into the bilge, where it will suck up water like a wick. Fish boats commonly make this mistake . Other wise it is quite watertight. It has to sit in water for a long time to absorb it. Tell your friend to stop the foam above the bilge ,so water can drain out of it , instead of wick up into it. Foam doesn't like to stick to bare aluminium or its oxide coating. Bruce Cope ( of Cope aluminum boats ) told me the best way to get anything to stick to aluminium is a light sandblasting. Next time he scrapes the foam out he should lightly sandblast the bare aluminium , put a primer on it then several coats of epoxy , before foaming . Keep the foam out of the bilge. For insulation down there, insulate the bottom of the floor boards.