Join Date: May 2005
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Re: Pros and cons of steel sailboats
That is probably true in that we would buy what is available.......BUT, with that in mind many of us find what is available to work just fine, but would like some things tweaked.
I would probably extend said boat a foot or two, along with a 2-3' prod to handle a fixed assymetric setup. Along with putting the anchor at the end, so that I could have a straight flush front. But in reality, all I have done is add the nose part with the fixed prod to a more std bow section, so I am not hitting the anchor on the bow when puling it up. Is this a good bad thing?!?!? who knows. just a different way of approaching an issue that is well known in my eye. Might even be better than a typical bow overhand, in that even this design could catch the sharp end of an anchor if it is swinging a bit. Possibly a better answer.
I would also have the forestay off the bow some, so one could have a below deck jib furler. This way I keep the SA low to the deck, with less farther above and off the deck so hopefully less heeling etc. I would also do a fractional rig with the biggest jib in the 120-130 range, and an option when it is spouse and I with a self tending 95% fore triangle jib. Total sail area would be around 23 to 25-1 for upwind work. Being as it is rather light winded here in the salish sea.
Down wind I want a hull that will allow 2x the hull speed with a crew on board in winds say over 20 knots. might need 25......that is another story for the designer to figure out.
Keel could be at least 7 if not 8' for where I sail here. This will also keep the boat lighter overall so speed specs could be met.
The SO349 and even the SF35 do not quite have the SA to meet the speed specs, but with some tweaking may be able to do so. The SF35 is around 24-1, the SO349 21-1 IIRC for both.
I'm pretty much doing week night around teh can racing, some on weekends, daysailing to weekending, with maybe one or two week longs in the summer. so my useage is different than others too. SO the how one uses a boat as you pointed out,needs to be kept in mind.
THere are some things like single vs dual rudders......not sure personally, that would probably have to be decided be how fat the ass end is to a degree. or do a really deep single rudder if the boat will heel some in certain conditions. I also prefer tillers over wheels from a steering standpoint. If the boat is fat in the rear, a tiller may not allow me the abiltity to see things to the side, so dual wheels may need to be done.
Sail lines etc would all be led to cockpit so a single person can get to ALL the lines. Line control cars would also be the norm for jibs and mainsail. So much easier to adjust the jib cars with lines from the cockpit vs pins and having to go forward and kick them......I mentioned this to the owner of Cape George boats a few weeks back. He had at the time the same opinion of some racing gimicks like this, but once I mentioned I can adjust the cars from the cockpit.....a lot nicer than going forward. He began to see the light on that item.
She drives me boat,
I drives me dinghy!