My thoughts are this:
I respect BS's origami method. It's clever.
It gives a fair hull based on the constraints of the geometric method.
But it's all about the method.
BS doesn't like to talk about numbers. Why?
He has none.
He doesn't even know what the boat displaces until he is done shaping it.
He sure as hell doesn't have a clue as to the basis hydrostatic paramaters.
He doesn't like numbers.
Is this bad?
The eye is the the final judge. Then the sea.
But why ignore a very powereful tool in shaping your boats. Numbers can allow us to compare one hull to the next in an objective way. I always trust my eye. But, I do not ignore the numbers.
BS reacts very defensively when numbers come up. That should tell you something. He has no numbers. He can't even produce a 2D weight study. He gets very angry when you ask for one. It is an essential Yacht Design 101 component of design.
Would you like me to post a weight study? I'd be proud to do it. It's boring stuff but essential if you are going to be in control of the boat your are "designing".
How many weight studies do you want to see?
The SLIVER project weight study woukld be a good, simple one to start with.
I am very proud of the fact that I do a thorough job of designing new boats. I want to look at my own work and say, ""Hey Bob, that is really good." You did it in a way that is recognized as good naval architecture by people who know naval architecture.
The results speak for themselves.
Back in the 80s, computers we have today were unavailable. I began by designing the hull shape in the traditional way, doing all the displacement calculations, prismatic coefficient, longitudinal centre of buoyancy, heeled centre of buoyancy , etc. etc. on a pocket calculator. I liked the dimensions of my Pipe Dream sloop , beam, deadrise, freeboard etc , but not the abysmal lack of hull balance and lack of directional stability, nor her deep V bows which pounded like hell while beating from Vanuatu to Fiji. So I stuck with the good points. The interesting thing about my 36 was ,when I first drew her up, while it can take many days to get things right, erasing and redrawing lines to get the numbers right , for the 36 they seemed to just drop into place. On the first drawing the LBC was right where I wanted it, 5.4 stations, as was the prismatic coefficient, .54 ,and the displacement. I rechecked it several times and it was right on. Ditto the hull balance, when heeled 25 degrees.
I then, carefully made a very accurate model, to take the plate shapes off. The model also gives you the option of double checking the LCB, by ballasting it till it floats on her lines, then balancing the model on a pencil. The balance point is your LCB. Weighing it, then multiplying the model's weight by the cube of the scale, gives you the weigh of the full sized boat ,floating on the same waterline. For a 1/12th scale, that means multiplying the weigh to the model by 1728 to get the weight of the finished hull.
When Allan Farrel who has built many very successful boats by eye, over many decades, never calculating anything mathematically, made a model of his traditional junk 'China Cloud" again with no calculations, I took his model to a digital grocery store scale, and had it weighed. Mutiplying this weight by the cube of the scale, gave me 13,000 lbs which is what she weighed floating on her lines.
This backup is far harder to screw up on, and gives one a very fool proof double check of ones calculations. It also gives one a double check on aesthetics, which can be very different in 3D compared to what one sees on a drawing.
All my clients buy their own steel, by the pound ,so the weight of the steel is on their receipts. The calculations for the pipe Dream Sloop, a 36 is in the back of the book "Skenes Elements of Yacht Design, given at around 710 lbs. Interiors for most 36 footers needn't vary much from that , and if they go radically different , there is no predicting what it will be.
Variations in the amount of goodies different owners put aboard can be thousands of pounds. Do you calculate the weight of scuba gear, for one diver aboard, two divers, or a whole family of divers, in cold water with heavy weight belts, or warm water with no weight belts? Tools , very different, depending on ones degree of independence or profession.
Some people are packrats, some are Spartans. Some are land dwelling weekenders, some live aboard full time, and have no place ashore for storage. No two boats will have the same weight of stuff aboard. The differences are far greater than anything you can calculate or predict. The final analysis is how well the boats on average sail and their passage times. That is what boats are for, not just to make the numbers match.. Mine do well on all such criteria, which is all that matters in the long run. I go by feedback, from those who make long voyages in my boats, not by speculation from those with minimal or no offshore long term cruising experience, or who have never owned and maintained a steel boat for any length of time, and who just repeat disinformation from those trying to sell you something else.
In the early 80s, there was a Dutch designed steel boat in Maple Bay. The hull was 1/8th inch plate. They had turned the building of the interior over to carpenters, who lined the entire hull with 1 inch plywood, then covered that with 1 inch teak, then built a very heavy interior on that. Was it the designers fault hat she floated far below her designed waterline? I think not!