Wow....Just....wow. Didn't you know that there is a difference between theory and fact? And for someone who is now preaching about innovation and disproving theory, how much have you changed about your designs to improve them since you drew them decades ago? I mean, all I would have to go on is your word. Your clients on the other hand may have changed a few things but I seriously doubt you have. To hear you talk, it's a wonder that man ever crossed an ocean before you came along. All those calculations you are so fond of mocking prove to me that the guy that designed the boat understands not only what does work but why it works and has done their best to make sure that it all works together as a complete unit rather than building something that looks like a boat out of the strongest material they can find in the hopes that it will hold together through poor seamanship or just plain bad luck. And don't twist my sarcasm into a misleading comment.
And I'm not so naïve as to trust the word of anybody, much less a designer/builder/cruiser with a lifetime of experience who would trust an anchor rode that is decades old.
The first origami boat I built had a chine running full length. On the second one we eliminated the chine in the bow , by welding the bottom plate to the topside plate, before pulling it together. On the second one we eliminated the chine at both ends, by cutting the bottom plate in half and welding each half to the topside plate, before pulling it together. Then we started using 8 by 36 ft plates , eliminating this seam and 32 feet of matching and welding in the process. Then we began welding bulwark pipes and longitudinal stringers on while the plate was flat on the ground, and welding all deck beams and stringers on, on a work bench, before installing them, eliminating a lot of overhead welding. I cringe when I se people advocating still dong this welding overhead, in place, when it is so unnecessary,(unless you like that kind of hot shower) Then more clients started using stainless sch 40 pipe for bulwark caps, eliminating a lot of maintenance. We switched to using zinc rich cold galvanizing primer, to eliminate the need for sandblasting. My boat was done that way, and after 29 years 95% of the paint is as good as the day I put it on. Then we began using the centreline as tankage, most of the tankage already being there, in the form of the hull bottom. This gave us a triangulated, super strong point to attach the keel supports to, where the tank top meets the hull plate, both well curved. Then we went for 3x3x1/2 inch angles from the chine to this solid point for keel supports.
We put a small window in the top of the tanks, so one could at any time, lift the floor boards, and see right to the bottom of the tanks.
We turned the back of the single keel into a 70 gallon diesel tank, with a similar window in top.
I started putting a small window by the forepeak bunk which allows you to see outside while laying in your bunk, and enabling you to see if you are dragging anchor or not, b y simply opening one eye.
If you have zero chafe on a nylon braid anchor line it is almost as good as the day you bought it. This business of throwing perfectly good gear away simply because of its age ,when there is nothing wrong with it is a suckers game , promoted by the ship swindlers. People who get suckered into that kind of foolishness spend a lot more of their lives working, and a lot less playing .No one ever lay on their death bed saying "I wish I had worked more." Don't believe any post from anyone who promotes such gullibility, or anyone who misleads one into believing I have ever advocated building an anchor winch out of tin cans. Compulsive liars, all too often, have cost people their cruising dreams, and too much of their freedom!
I wish that chat button was not so close to the scroll down one.
Time to go for a swim, sauna and Jacuzzi. Special today . $2.50
Olympic sized pool. Ozone bleached ,No chlorine smell./