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I'm thinking about making the leap from fiberglass to steel for our next sailboat. We want to do some far flung cruising - maybe even circumnavigate. Our present boat is a 1977 Tartan 37 and while we love it - since we've had a child and possibly will have another one on the way it might get a bit small for a liveaboard situation.
This summer I drove a big, old steel tour boat around the finger lakes and started thinking that steel might be a good way to get my family around the big marble.
I've spent a week in the Caribbean on a glorious aluminium boat but have never sailed a steel one, so I have lots of questions about their performance as cruising boats?
What are some of the better designers to keep and eye out for?
How good are they in the hot climates?
Are there any extra dangers in lightning?
Thanks for any and all advice you can give.
Tom:
I am talking to Jim Betts in Anacortes about building the skiff. Jim built a 63'er of my design and he is a true artist with alu. We will go over the model in detail and I am confident that when we begin we will have a design that can be built without problems. That's what a good designer does automatically.
I like to keep a good, positive attitude when I start a new project:
When we started the FT10m project in China I was attacked from every angle for trying to do a high tech sport boat in China. We sold 122 FT10m's and just made a fleet sale of 13 more FT7.5m's to the Chinese Navy. They bought 20 7.5's last year. Despite the naysayers the Flying Tiger project has been very profitable for me.
Tom:
What I have in mind is a workboat level of finish. So I think that would mean leaving the welds exposed. This process is new to me so I will be learning what I really want as I go along. Like life.
No anodizing. No nuttin. I live on a beach where there is a combo of sand and rocks depending on the tide level. I need to have a boat that I can drag over the rocks, within reason. The rocks are big, round like pebbles. I have a design for a dolly wheel that will fit on the stern. Just not keen on having the look of the wheel. I'll see.
Ok Tom. Then if it is one weld to save dough is the weld on the outside or the inside of the shell?
Many thanks for the help.
I asked Brent some direct questions re; scantlings but I got no answer. Maybe he's not comfy with alu. I can do it without his help. Could have been fun. Hope he'll stay in the loop and chime in from time to time.
Tom:
My 3D guy, Jody Culbertson, looked into sheet lengths and he is pretty certain we can get the length. I'll find out from Jim Betts. He does a lot of alu work including work on commercial boats.
Sanitation is not my top priority but I do shower on Mondays.
Jon:
I live in an area where we have a lot of bare alu work boats. I love work boats. They have integrity. I can go with that look. I prefer that look. It suits my mood.
That's exactly the point I have been making all along!
I have only done one multi chine hull, definitely a lot trickier than a single chine. A singe chine hull is far simpler to build and far more forgiving of minor mistakes. Its very easy on a multi chine hull to get chine angles far different than that which you intended, not a problem with a single chine hull. Bob's computer skills should eliminate that possibility, but others could get into difficulty that way. Multi chine hulls are also a lot more needless cutting, fitting and welding, with it is increased distortion potential , especially when you have a lot less of the ends conic.
A clean aluminum boat does look good. Saw many this morning at my marina, along with some pretty white 24' skinny azzed sailboat......altho it did have a pretty wood transom with an 8hp motor attached..........
Brent:
Right. The builder is already talking about using a "wood plug" inside the skin to keep it fair while welding it.
"That's exactly the point I have been making all along!"
Yes, but while I want this look for the peapod it's not a look I want for my yachts. But I am capable of drawing something that would suit that look, something on the rugged side. It would take the right client. Like me.
"Ill look for your question, when I get the time, on my own time. "
Don't bother Brent. I think I have it far along now that I can fumble my way through the rest of the process with the builder. He has a good handling on scantlings and is looking for inventory now. Thanks anyway.
Way to heavy for a dinghy. As with most 16 gauge aluminium runabouts , most internal bracing is unnecessary. The seats and floatation compartments should be all the bracing you need.
Bob, I am in lust. The bow and the flare on the gunnels. I cant get the hull out of my mind. It is beautiful. I can't imagine anyone not wanting to the point of trading off thier wife for the finished boat.
I will work out the details with the builder. He is very good. He built WHITE EAGLE, my 63'er and he is a true artist in alu. His concern now is that the ends might "banana up" and he does not want to wreck my lovely sheer.
I have no intention of reducing chine length only to lose control over the shape I want. I may have to step back after we build a boat and rethink some things but for now I like what I have and I'll leave it to a skilled builder to make my idea work. Or not.
No worries Brent. You just go back to cruising, You sound a bit stressed out as usual. Maybe more cruising will help. Maybe a nice long walk on the beach.
No worries Brent. You just go back to cruising, You sound a bit stressed out as usual. Maybe more cruising will help. Maybe a nice long walk on the beach.
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