I'm curious. Exactly who are you talking about here? It can't be me and I'm very happy to post one of my structural drawings. "That designer has also, while criticizing my drawings, admitted that he provides only hull shape, leaving structural and other very important factors entirely up to the builder."
Maybe you could post one of your own strructural drawings and we can compare level of detail. Of course for this design the drawing posted is only one of several structural drawings. I dont have the others digitized.
I can post more if you want more proof but they will just intimidate you even more. So, once again, be careful before putting words into other people's mouths. In the end it will just display your own ignorance.
That is one extremely, needlesly complex , time consuming and expensive boat to build.It is obviously designed by someone with zero hands on experince in building in steel .That is the kind of nonsense which turns a boat building project into a 20 year project while runniung the owner so deeply in debt that he cant use it for what a boat is for ,cruising time.
The benefit? Spending years of building time and paying for it time ,to only possibly save a couple of days on a passage . I see a huge amount of structuraly redundant steel in that drawing. All that centreline flat bar? The centrline of the hull plate is a huge longitudinal angle iron, structurally, and the keel and skeg sides are fully welded steel bulkheads on edge, making that flat bar structurally irrelevant .
The detail is to small to see ,but what is the cap on that bulwark? What do you use for deck longitudinals? As the deck edges shrink longitudinally, they do a lot to keep the decks from oilcanning. An extra inch in the cabintop camber makea a huge increase in stiffness and a huge decrease in the chance of disortion.
The side decks look a bit skimpy compared to what you usually do. I thought you knew better. I have always refused to do narrow side decks, which owners have always thanked me for later.
The complex compound shapes on those hull plates, easy to draw on paper ,by someone who will never have to make steel go in that shape, are a horrendous waste of time and money. They inevitably result in the use of a lot of filler, which means having to pamper your hull , eliminating a huge advantage of building in steel in the first place.
Chain plates running down the hull are another example of not being able to get out of wood and plastic boat thinking. A weld has 100% of ther strength of the metal. Once you have welded a long enough base on the chainplate to more than match the strength of the shroud, any further is a complete waste of time money and material.
One should bear in mind that in colder lattitudes ,(even on your side of the Strait of Want to Puka ,Bob) a piece of steel the size of your fingernail poking thru the spray foam will drip condensation continually, like a leaky faucett. Thus every bit of that redundant steel in this boat will have to be covered by a half inch of foam. The more steel ,the more covering you will have to do, and the more interior space gets eaten up. However, there is no need to cover foam inside of lockers. Don't let the spray foamer leave, until you have checked it several times, and have him touch up all the tiny spots he missed.
The more hard edges , and nooks and cranies in a boat ,the more maintenace it will take to keep paint on them. Simplifying drastically reduces maintenance on a steel boat.