Thank you Brent. That was informative. What do you do welding? Do you grind edges to45 degrees to pull a good puddle? What do you think about flame zincing? Is there advantages to using closed cell sheets or do you foam in place? What about fire and toxic fume threats? Do you use heat sinks welding? Do you tack and wander to decrease distortion?
I use mostly 6011 for uphand and overhead and 7024 for horizontal downhand
I use 316 stainless sticks for stainless and stainless to steel welding
I grind edges to 45 for full penetration, where needed. The chine and centreline etc are already open.
Flame spraying is an excellent way of eliminating paint job maintenance. I wrote extensively on this subject a few posts back.
Tried sheet foam, and no matter how hard I tried to get a sealed vapour barrier in front of it, it kept things soaking wet behind them with condensation
Sprayfoams is the only realistic long term solution I have found. Friends tried sheet foam and found it cost as much as spray foam by the time they were done, and a huge amount of work.
A friend priced the foaming kits now available in Home Hardware. They look like a couple of propane bottles that you hook up to a mixing nozzle .He said they cost about half the cost of having a foamer come in, and are easy to use.
One of my 36 footers caught fire in Frisco Bay .Dispite intense heat, the fire went only as far as where he had painted it with cheap latex paint. The fire would go no further. Couldnt get enough oxygen.
I try to keep my welds short, to minimize distortion, more in some places than others.
Any reasonably skilled amateur shouldn't have to hire anyone to build his boat. Used sails are far cheaper than the cost of materials, let alone time, so there are exceptions, but few.
With my book and plans, and Alex's video many have been building their own boats, with no problems. The book is pretty dog eared by the time they are done, but they found the answers they needed there.
I find my boats are easy to build right side up, and building one upside down would be a waste of time. Overhead welding is not that hard to learn, and I minimize it with my building methods. Integral tanks add a huge amount of structural strength to my boats, the tank top being a large horizontal, fully welded steel bulkhead, structurally. While that is irrelevant in my single keeler, it makes a good, very strong attachment point for my transverse keel webs, on my twin keelers. Without the tank top there, one would have to run the transverse supports to the centreline, making the centreline useless as as tankage. This would leave the only option for tankage, much higher up, raising the centre of gravity and reducing stability.
Thanks for finally asking real questions on this thread, to finally break the stream of adolescent drivel.