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post #1 of 56 Old 11-28-2012 Thread Starter
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Looking at a Alberg 35

I'm looking at a 1965 Alberg 35 Yawl with a tiller. The boat seems sound, though it does have some deck rot/delamination (of course!). The guy owned it for over a decade, and has done almost nothing to it. All cushions need replacement as do the toe rails (some major cracks), and interior wood needs refinishing. I think I would paint the Formica wood grain on the bulkheads white. Besides the new tachometer, the only working instrument is the depth sounder, which he claims works, though, the "graph feature" no longer functions. Looks like this thing should be in the Smithsonian! (picture attached).
On the positive side, the sails and rigging are good and he replaced the A4 with a Beta Marine 20 HP Diesel which has about 25 hours on it. I assume the hull is almost bullet proof.
So, it seems that right now, this boat is a flotation device for a nice engine! Though, it could be more with a fair amount of cosmetic work and some deck work.
Questions:
At 6 Tons I guess 20 HP is enough, using the 3hp per Ton rule. Though, the boat has a full keel and the original A4 touts 27hp. As I recall Diesel HP isn't the same as gas HP. Is that true? If so, why?

The mast step compression beam that runs under the cabin top and supports seem sound, but show water stains. (Pictures attached). The cabin top doesn't sag under the mast, but the bulkhead door seems warped (closes, but doesn't latch, may just be the door). Is anyone aware of issues with this system on these boats?

Hard to tell what lurks on a 45 year old boat with a glass coach top liner! On the other hand, it's nice liner and I wouldn't want to remove it for no reason. Seems I would have to in order to replace the toe rail.

Any input is welcome, especially from members who have these boats. I know there are a couple. I posted this in the Alberg section on a old thread but didn't get results. Thought it might do better here.
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mast step beam 1.jpg   compression bulkhead door bowed latch won't  close.jpg   Compression post beam water stains.jpg   1125121045a.jpg  
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post #2 of 56 Old 11-28-2012
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Re: Looking at a Alberg 35

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As I recall Diesel HP isn't the same as gas HP. Is that true? If so, why?
Horses are horses. Horsepower is a calculated number, not a measured number - Torque X RPM divided by 5250 = Horsepower (which is the reason ALL engines torque and horsepower numbers match at 5250 RPM)

Diesel engines have flatter torque curves than gas and they produce their torque at lower RPM for the most part. That's why they feel like they have more "grunt".

Torque is a far more useful number than horsepower.

As a side note, if you can find out the RPM where your engine produces maximum torque, that is also the RPM where you will get the best fuel economy under load - ideally your prop should be pitched to run at that RPM at hull speed.
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post #3 of 56 Old 11-29-2012
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Re: Looking at a Alberg 35

I believe there is a 37 or 35 in MDR, Broker has it.

1) assuming is for fools.
2)Inspect it from Stem to stern, looking for cracked glass joints at, tanks, bulkheads, keel bolts, hull deck joints, Or anything you can't explain.
3)look for water trails, odd wear marks.
4)Most rudders are shaft / bar construction, and seamed around the edges, look for cracks.
5) the Betta I remember from china sounded like it had a cracked tuning fork in it, But, It's there. It's been years but I think some of the Albergs had an Atomic 4 23 hp. that displacement hull will flow your wetted surfaces well limiting drag. though I don't think I've been on an Alberg in 33 to 35 years, stuffing box hose was lose.
As for the paper graph, the paper was $8 a roll in the 80 I think it was. Are you planning to do salvage diving and need a record of what you went over?
The interior looks to be solid teak frames with Formica(Trade name). You can paint it. or you could Assuming It is what I think, remove the Formica, and replace it with a teak veneer, Sand and Varnish or Teak oil all of the above. If you don't know how seal the teak and paint, unless you use epoxy paint it will probably fall off anyway, but you will have time to gather the skills you need to move forward.

Sounds easy. I bought my current prize while she was sunk. So your way ahead.
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post #4 of 56 Old 11-29-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Looking at a Alberg 35

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.

1) assuming is for fools.
Easy there JC! I said I "assume" the hull is bulletproof because in 1965 they didn't know how strong fiberglass was and over compensated. it's reported to be an inch thick in spots. Does this OP look like it was composed by a "fool"?
2)Inspect it from Stem to stern, looking for cracked glass joints at,tanks, bulkheads, keel bolts, hull deck joints, Or anything you can't explain.
I assure you, should I chose to proceed, I will have her hauled and get a survey. Simply qualifing now.
3)look for water trails, odd wear marks. Obviously, I have. Hence the question about water marks on the beam and the comment about the liner concealing things!
4)Most rudders are shaft / bar construction, and seamed around the edges, look for cracks.
5) the Betta I remember from china sounded like it had a cracked tuning fork in it, But, It's there. It's been years but I think some of the Albergs had an Atomic 4 23 hp. that displacement hull will flow your wetted surfaces well limiting drag. though I don't think I've been on an Alberg in 33 to 35 years, stuffing box hose was lose.
Hugh?
As for the paper graph, the paper was $8 a roll in the 80 I think it was. Are you planning to do salvage diving and need a record of what you went over?
I would have no intention of using this dinosaur. Just thought it was funny that it was still working at all! I guess the graph feature was intended for fishing or something. I assume it wasn't intended for sailing (Oooops...there I go....assuming again!)
The interior looks to be solid teak frames with Formica(Trade name). You can paint it. or you could Assuming It is what I think, remove the Formica, and replace it with a teak veneer, Sand and Varnish or Teak oil all of the above. If you don't know how seal the teak and paint, unless you use epoxy paint it will probably fall off anyway, but you will have time to gather the skills you need to move forward. I have no intention of painting the Teak. Just the Formica.
Sounds easy. I bought my current prize while she was sunk. So your way ahead.
JCBoyce
Must have been tough to spot "water trails". On the other hand, you didn't have to put her on the hard to inspect the rudder, she was already there. It was you who was afloat! Unless you bought her sunk unseen...but only a fool would do that!

Last edited by L124C; 11-29-2012 at 03:19 AM.
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post #5 of 56 Old 11-29-2012
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Re: Looking at a Alberg 35

Thoughts?

It is a classic boat, well designed and generally well built for its era. Carl Alberg was a genius and Pearson was a great builder. Mahina Expeditions lists it as a boat to consider for a bluewater cruiser: Mahina Expedition - Selecting A Boat for Offshore Cruising

It would be an excellent boat for a project/restoration low-initial-cost, go-anywhere, sailing vessel, provided you are willing to put in the sweat equity to bring it back to its full glory. Study Don Casey's "This Old Boat" to fully understand the work you will have to undertake.
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post #6 of 56 Old 11-29-2012
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Re: Looking at a Alberg 35

If I am not mistaken SN member smurphny also has an Alberg 35'.

I am also a fan of good old plastic classics like the A 35'. My Tartan 27' is from 1967.

Good news is the newer Beta 20 HP engine. For the A35 I would have considered a Beta 28 but 20 hp should be fine - especially with a 3 blade prop on it. It is also a good thing that the boat does not come with a lot of electronics and such as they become obsolete quite quickly.

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post #7 of 56 Old 11-29-2012
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Re: Looking at a Alberg 35

I saw the boat on yachtworld. Lots of pictures of it (including the antique graph) and overall it looks like a pretty good size project. I'm guessing you'll have plenty have plenty of man-hours invested by the time you get it shining.
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Re: Looking at a Alberg 35

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If I am not mistaken SN member smurphny also has an Alberg 35'.
I am also a fan of good old plastic classics like the A 35'. My Tartan 27' is from 1967.
Good news is the newer Beta 20 HP engine. For the A35 I would have considered a Beta 28 but 20 hp should be fine - especially with a 3 blade prop on it. It is also a good thing that the boat does not come with a lot of electronics and such as they become obsolete quite quickly.
I have a 1970 Yankee 30 and would never get rid of her is she was 5 feet longer and had a inch more head room! I never thought I would be moving to an older boat (certainly nothing without ST winches!), but a Alberg/Ericson 35 caught my eye in the marina.
Just got a copy of a survey that was done on the Alberg in 1999. She had a 30hp A4 which was not working at the time. Interestingly, the owner was apparently sailing her as a Sloop and had the Mizzen in his Garage. The current owner says in strong winds (SF Bay most Summer afternoons!), he likes to use the Head sail and Mizzen without a Main. From what I've read, the boat is initially tender, and has a fair amount of Weather Helm in strong winds, so the second approach probably makes sense.
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post #9 of 56 Old 11-29-2012
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Re: Looking at a Alberg 35

I looked at a Pearson Alberg 35 about a year ago. Prior to that I loved them 35 on paper! Then when I finally got to go aboard and see one.. I was kind of shocked by the "smallness" of them given the fact they are 35ft boat. They are very well laid out however.

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My boat is sold!

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Re: Looking at a Alberg 35

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I looked at a Pearson Alberg 35 about a year ago. Prior to that I loved them 35 on paper! Then when I finally got to go aboard and see one.. I was kind of shocked by the "smallness" of them given the fact they are 35ft boat. They are very well laid out however.
That's because they are really a 24' boat - on the waterline. 1.5 feet less W/L and a foot less beam than your O'Day 30.

Looking at boats from an LOA view is, or can be very misleading - W/L and Disp. are a much more valid basis for comparison of "size".

Those beautiful overhangs cost a lot in dockage.
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