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post #11 of 15 Old 04-12-2011 Thread Starter
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Thank you all, Good information there. Minnewaska, I do have a racor in line to the engine. Like I said before, I have no problems with the fuel right now, I was just curious if anyone has tried one of these, and what they thought of it. So far it appears nobody has and concur that it's a non problem.
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post #12 of 15 Old 04-12-2011
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No first hand experience with the desiccant filter described, but I would want a Racor fuel/water separator in either case. The desiccant could fail and I still want separation. As described, if you take good measures, the Racor is probably fully sufficient.

Whether or not you have sufficient water in the fuel to create combustion or oxidation problems, you may have enough to encourage bacterial growth. Simply adding a biocide at each fill up is the best solution. About $10 worth can last for years.
A standard racor with 'separator' only (partly) removes 'free' or 'visible' water ... a problem BEYOND fully saturated with water (a biphasic liquid stratification of water and oil).

You 'can' use filters with a specific 'starch added' (typically hydroxymethylcellulose) for water absorption ... however these are LARGE and quite expensive filters to operate. When I find water loaded oil, I simply recirculate the oil through a 'pure cellulose 'starch loaded' filter set ... quite complicated and when the 'starch' is fully saturated it will block the flow. Water in oil is in various states: free water, emulsified water and molecular water ... if you only remove the 'free' water, you still have the emulsified water (can later 'drop out' under the right equilibrium conditions), etc.
There are also 'water shedding' filters made of hydrophobic filter media but wet-out with oil - a high efficiency removal of 'free water' unobtainable by simple 'gravity settling' in 'sumps', etc.
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post #13 of 15 Old 04-12-2011
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Hey RichH, follow up question. If fully saturated oil gets past the Racor it will be imminently burned. Is that a problem of any kind? Would you think that if it falls out of solution in the tank, the Racor should now grab enough to also prevent much of a problem?


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post #14 of 15 Old 04-12-2011
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As long as slugs of 'free' water dont come in contact with the injector tips ... should be no problem. Just dont have a large enough quantity so that the injector tips 'shatter' due to the thermal shock.

In fact, the more non-free water (within the limits of combustion science) that gets into the combustion chamber the 'slower the fuel burns' ... similar to an octane or cetane boost.

Plus the 'flash' of water in the combustion chamber will help 'clean it out'. Hot rodders have been cleaning out their engine internal of deposits for years by slowly dumping a cup or two of hot water into a hot engine.

The ultimate problem for Racor and like competitive filters is that they are made of resinated cellulose fibers which ultimately will absorb water and eventually will lose strength and may break due to the 'digestion' of the cellulose by water. Change out no later than at 1 year maximum in-service time.
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post #15 of 15 Old 04-13-2011
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The ultimate problem for Racor and like competitive filters is that they are made of resinated cellulose fibers which ultimately will absorb water and eventually will lose strength and may break due to the 'digestion' of the cellulose by water. Change out no later than at 1 year maximum in-service time.
That is very good advice. They work, but only if you take care of them. Since they can be a pain to change, I fear too many let them go too long.


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