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B24 restoration continues....

9K views 17 replies 12 participants last post by  prettyredcars 
#1 ·
What better place to keep a log than here?

Today I ended up cutting about a 4 ft section of deck today due to what I thought was some "light" core delamination. What wasn't rotted, was at least wet. I ended up cutting from the chainplate up to roughly 18" forward of the stanchion. Tomorrow I'll let it dry out in the sun, put a heat lamp on it, and see how it goes.

Who's idea was it to restore an old bristol?:D


On a lighter note, the interior is coming clean rather quickly. And the repairs needed on the keel are going to be easier than expected.

I'll have some pictures of the damage tomorrow.
 
#3 ·
On weds, I went to do the glass work repairs on the keel. The previous owner had drilled some holes into the concrete keel because the boat had taken on water through the top of the keel during a storm. After grinding away some of the glass on both sides of the keel, I found the holes, and a few cracks that appeared to be just surface cracks. When I went the next day to do the glass work, I noticed water had poured out of the holes and the cracks. I decided to grind all the way down to the concrete. Low and behold, about 30 gallons of SEA water began to pour out. The boat had to have been taking on water through the cracks in the glass. I'm hoping it is dry enough to glass tomorrow so I can be finished with the hull on saturday. The other glass work on the hull is all finished.
 
#4 ·
Jeremy, where is the crack in your keel that is leaking water? Bristol hulls were made in two molds then clamped together and the inside and outside tabbed with cloth and resin, faired and gelcoated. If the crack is on the bottom in the center than you may want to do more extensive glass work to ensure structural integrity.
 
#5 ·
The cracks were about 8-10" or so above the bottom of the keel. I've since ground both sides down all the way to the concrete. One side has been filled, glassed, ground, and it's ready for gel coat tomorrow. The other side still has a bit of moisture towards the bottom. It should be dry enough to glass tomorrow.

The deck repair is still going VERY slowly though.
 
#10 ·
Is there a chemist in the house?

I'm looking for a chemical solution to a wet concrete ballast. After some research I think it might be possible without damaging the fiberglass or rusting the iron to flush the water out with an inhibited propylene glycol such as Dynalene PG, but would like some advice.

Wayne Batcheler
Bristol 24 Hull #576 "Banoo"
Noank, CT
 
#11 ·
another Bristol 24

Hi guys,

I'm new to the forum and I acquired a Bristol 24 this summer. It is a work in progress. I had some major bulkhead rot due to a chain plate leaking and then the boat stored for about 7 years. In reading your posts, it sounds like my boat may have a cement balast? Mine is a 1977, hull # 652.

Also, I would really like to see the pics of the 10-year resoration project for some inspiration...
 
#14 ·
i recently bought 1969 Bristol 24 with two frineds. hull 391. we too have concrete ballast. When we tack we hear water moving across bildge. We have not came across more than usual water in the bildge and wondering about the sound. it seems according to previous treads, we may have some water in the keel. our boat is on the water and plan to sail all winter and continues. well. we will see when and how to inspect the water problem and how to go about this. Meanwhile, we all enjoy sailing her and she is awesome!
 
#15 ·
Hi Piperdude,

Have you checked out taco marine? They sell 1 1/8" x 1 1/4" flexible rubrail (part # V11-3161), plus the rigid track that the rub rail mounts to. Check out this link:

Flexible Rub Rail @ http://tacomarine.com

I bought enough for a complete rubrail from them many years ago ('93) and if can't get my rub rail cleaned up this winter, I might be buying more from them soon!
 
#17 ·
Bristol 24 ballast

Found a concrete engineer to discuss treating the ballast, and he suggested the first step would be take a 2" core of the ballast to see what is in there. This could be done from the top without much damage if a boring machine would fit down through the companionway. The hole could easily be glassed over. My bilge is about 10-3/4" deep at the aft end, but some white residue similar to concrete has leaked from a couple of small blisters on the hull down in the ballast area. Possibly I have lead encapsulated in concrete.

Wayne Batcheler
Bristol 24 "Banoo" Hull #576
Noank, CT
 
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