Still looking for solution...1975 32 forward hatch - Page 3

johnshasteen · #21 (**permalink**) 08-29-2009

Ah yes Neil, now I remember!! We are in a slip that would fit your boat. We moved to Houston, so we are on a waiting list for a slip up at Freeport - if the timing is right, this one might work out for you. Down here, there's no better marina to be in. Everyone here is friendly and sociable, bring your dog if you want, free internet, good coffee in the AM at the marina store, nice swiming pool, etc. We pay our own electricity, but with Reliant Energy our electric runs $7-12 a month and when we're at the boat - like right now - we run the 12K BTU AC constantly.

FishmanTx · #22 (**permalink**) 08-30-2009

Outstanding! I think that's what my partner wanted anyway. Cove Harbor is a bit pricey! Let us know when your getting ready. I'll check with Bahia to make sure we're still on the list.
Does Bahia have any problem with minor work being done at the slip? We plan to splash Baby and do the nitpicking stuff at the slip.....
Thx!

xsboats · #23 (**permalink**) 08-30-2009

ows1id, I have a mold for a hatch with non-skid on the top. The flange piece is moveable to facilitate different hatch sizes. It can also be adjusted to produce different cambers on the top. Feel free to call me for the cost of having a new hatch molded for your boat, Scott 904-540-2291

ows1id · #24 (**permalink**) 08-30-2009

Scott

very interesting.
do you have any way to match the original camber and size for the Bristol 32? I can make rough measurements but it would seem that a set of drawings would be much more accurate and have greater chance of success

xsboats · #25 (**permalink**) 08-31-2009

Most likely, the camber of the hatch would be that of the cabintop since that is the visual reference your eye would catch. In looking at a photo of the boat , this appears to be the case with your 32 . To match the camber, you would need to set a straight edge athwartships on the centerline of the cabintop. Measure down to the cabintop at points 14" out to either side of the centerline . Is 28"x28" the outer dimensions of the flange creating the hatch opening? My mold has a nonskid that is stippled rather than the repeating square pattern found on some boats. What is the nonskid pattern of your deck and cabintop? I can duplicate camber and dimensions, but the nonskid pattern of the mold can not be changed.

ows1id · #26 (**permalink**) 08-31-2009

XSboats

I am not concerned about the pattern of the non-skid. My real concern is how to get a hatch that fits the existing opening and has the camber that works. This weekend I will see I can get the measurements that you mention. Two concerns are that the camber may be different from fore to aft because the cabin expands as you go aft and the flanges may have a slight expansion from top to bottom to allow clearence as the hatch is lifted on hinges on the aft side.

ows1id Punta g\Gorda FL

xsboats · #27 (**permalink**) 08-31-2009

The camber should be measured at both the forward and aft ends of the hatch opening. You are right about the variance from top to bottom.All molded parts must have what is known as draft [angulation of the sides]. If they were slab sided [the same top to bottom], the part would not release from the mold.This is slightly more pronounced on the sides of the hatch than the sides of the flange around the deck opening.