C&C 35 mk3 Window repair - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 5 Old 06-09-2015 Thread Starter
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C&C 35 mk3 Window repair

Hi everyone,

Hope your boating season has begun, been a long winter here in NS!

Does anyone have suggestion for fixing leaking windows on the c&c 35 mk3. I have had the yard trying to fix it but even they have given up! They have been trying to seal with different compounds (4200, flex)but to no avail. I am wondering if making a frame or using screws to attach is the only WY to do it.My only concern is there is balsa or marine plywood in the fiberglass around the windows that could be affected by leaks if screwed.

If anyone has any suggestions would love to hear from you.
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post #2 of 5 Old 07-18-2015
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Re: C&C 35 mk3 Window repair


I also have a 35/3, I bought 3/4" black marine striping and installed over the seem. Just did it not long ago and so far no water. It also covered some small stress cracks in the gelcoat around the window.

1987 C&C 35/3 "Oasis"
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post #3 of 5 Old 07-18-2015
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Re: C&C 35 mk3 Window repair

Silpruf or Sikaflex 295 seem to be a popular and effective choice, there is a good thread (for SA anyway, not too much adult content) here, how i fixed my f-ed up windows - Cruising Anarchy - Sailing Anarchy Forums
You should also look into the C&C mailing list at C&C Yachts - C&C Photo Album & Resource Center - it's a subject that has been discussed at great length.

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post #4 of 5 Old 07-18-2015
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Best bet is to carefully remove the windows and use double sided black tape used in auto body shops and Dow 795 or Sikafkex.
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post #5 of 5 Old 07-18-2015
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Re: C&C 35 mk3 Window repair

There are multiple answers to what is the "best adhesive sealant" for bonded lenses. I prefer BoatLife Life Seal.
Gotta say, there is a C&C 35-3 in our club and the owner agonized over having just the right adhesive and he prepped the surfaces "just so" .... and at least one of them leaked anyway.

While we could shrug and say that the structure must flex "too much" in the seas... Naah -- my take on it is that too few owners (and boatyards!) realize that the lens has to ride on a significant bed of adhesive/sealant such that the thermal expansion of the plastic lens will not lose its grip.

I got this advice from an expert boat builder/restorer in 1995 when I replaced the four large unframed lexan lenses on our Olson 34. I put little spacers by each fastening (later found out that small O rings would be been quicker and better) to control the thickness of the sealant bed. Our lenses are adhered to the top of a layer of black sealant about 1/8 to 3/16 high. Yep, it takes several tubes of sealant.

Here we are, 20 years down the watery road, and about time to replace those lenses again due to increasing UV hazing.... and.... NEVER a leak has occurred.

So do consider that difference in expansion between the lens material and your frp boat.

Further... mask off everywhere with 3M blue tape and lots of paper. That sealant will wander all around!

You also know you have to abraid the bedding area of the structure with some 80 grit and clean it with acetone, right? And abraid only the inside edge part of the lens with 80 grit, just a little, to give the sealant something to cling to, right?

Wear old clothes, have a large bucket handy to put paper towels into........

Have a cold six pack of micro brew ready for the end of the project. It will taste all the better with your satisfaction at having saved a ton of $$ at yard rates.


ps: about those "stress" cracks in the window edge gelcoat. I believe that they are caused by slightly too-thick gel coat laid up in the mold... No problem with the boat's engineering. That C&C 35 at our club has them too.
Gel coat continues to "cure" and slightly shrink for years/decades after initial cure. This cosmetic problem occurs on a host of different makes of boat anywhere there is a fairly sharp radius edge.

Last edited by olson34; 07-18-2015 at 06:22 PM.
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