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C&C redwing 30 leak

4K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  A H Hooker 
#1 ·
Greetings
I just won a 1968 C&C redwing 30 on e-bay. Cheap cheap, but in pretty good shape. Problem I have is when sailing it part way home I discovered after a few waves that the rascal leaked around the deck to hull joint. I have read somewhere that a guy removed the rub rail and removed the old caulking and then glassed in the joint all the way around the boat. Anybody have any ideas about how to solve the leak problem. How do I remove the rub rail? Do I removed the rubber part and are there screws underneath that I can remove to get to the joint? Would 5200 or some such adhesive do the job instead of glassing in the joint? Any assistance/advice would be greatly appreciated.

thanks sailr44
 
#2 ·
Leaking apparently everywhere? or a few specific locations?

Without knowing the details of the hull/deck joint it's hard to say what the best approach would be. A boat of that vintage may have a wood toerail? (I know our '68 Viking 28 did, another C&C design) We had no leaks but did replace the entire toerail with new wood and bedded it all in a sealant (PRC??? - It's been a while) that would have sealed any issues on the joint itself.
 
#3 ·
If it has the usual C&C aluminum toerail snug up the bolts a bit. easiest to have somebody outside with a screwdriver and tighten the bolts inside. can't remember the socket size offhand, I know I use a deep socket on a 1/4" drive with an extension. Doesn't need much torque. Should be butyl rubber between the hull and deck on an inward flange, don't want to squeeze it all out. Mine needs adjutment here and there every year after spring launch, things change shape over the winter in the cradle.
 
#4 ·
Our Viking did not have the 'typical' C&C extruded rail, and I don't believe the Redwing 30 did either..

The joint was a 'shoebox' type of the cross section shown below.. the wood rail sat in the 'ledge' created as shown. The same-era Redwing MAY be similar...

 
#5 ·
I want to thank you all for your ideas and help. I guess I just gotta jump in and see what is in store for me. I'm hoping that 5200 will cure the leak. It seems to leak all the way around at the deck hull joint. I guess for a 1968 boat its time to re caulk the joint.

Fair Winds
sailr44
 
#6 ·
I want to thank you all for your ideas and help. I guess I just gotta jump in and see what is in store for me. I'm hoping that 5200 will cure the leak. It seems to leak all the way around at the deck hull joint. I guess for a 1968 boat its time to re caulk the joint.

Fair Winds
sailr44
Dont put 5200 on your joint, it should only be used where you never expect to need to remove it. I would think you want to use butyl tape, which is what C&C used for its deck joints in the '70s. This advice assumes you are planning to remove the fasteners and open the joint so it can be properly caulked. If you attempt to just seal it from inside, i doubt that will work.

Maybe you now know at least one of the reasons the boat was on EBay.
 
#7 ·
If the joint is the typical overlapping deck joint, the leaks may be caused by the fasteners. Typically the cap rail is bolted on 12" centers with Self Tapping or machine screws and nuts on 4" centers under the cap rail. If that is the case, pull the cap rail and fasteners and rebed all the fastenersl with LifeCaulk, 4200, Butyl, etc. If that doesn't cure the problem, may have to lift the deck from the hull, rebed and refasten. If that is the case, fiberglassing the hull to deck joint using epoxy resin may be cheaper and easier.
 
#8 ·
Nope hadn't considered caulking from inside. I knew that wouldn't work. You are right about the 5200. I'll have to see what else is available. I'm worried about glassing the deck and hull joint. Seems as though most boats flex and this might open up a whole new can of worms. Thanks for your input!
 
#10 ·
Having replaced the entire hull deck joint, I know what we are talking about. The deck is attached to the hull with bolts about every 6" through the teak toe rail and genoa track. The rubrail fits between the deck and hull, and is probably sealed in place. Replaced my rubrail about 10+ years ago for $1500.
 
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